south-east, descending over undulating hills to a tract called Dasht-i-Garinab. The weather at first looked brighter, but ere long we found ourselves exposed to heavy, cold rain. At ten miles we had to cross a bridgeless water-course, and the banks being steep and muddy we were forced to dismount and lead our horses across; in spite of this the gholam's horse fell, and for a time seemed hopelessly bogged; having with difficulty extricated it, we pushed on over a soft, salt plain, into which the horses sank heavily — these were the worst horses which we had had on the whole journey, and for the last five miles they could scarcely proceed at a walking pace, which was all the more trying, because in the dim, misty distance, through the driving rain we could discern our destination, which we seemed utterly unable to reach. At 6.30, having taken five hours to do twenty-five miles, we literally staggered into Nishapūr, and finding the bala khaneh too cold and draughty to be occupied, we chose one of the small, dark, lower rooms, where we lit a fire and proceeded to dry our soaked clothes. At 9.30 we dined, having previously received a
