Page:Letters from New Zealand (Harper).djvu/186

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Letters from New Zealand

for beds, as there were no cabins, and had to witness those who could eat at their dinner. One of these, apparently a commercial traveller, to Poole's great indignation, ate pork chops, whilst expressing his sympathy for us. Next morning, being Sunday, after breakfast, which we could not touch, down came the eater of pork chops, and said to Poole, "Won't you or your mate give us a service?" "How can you ask?" said Poole. "You've had a good breakfast, and we haven't touched anything since we came on board." Soon after noon we entered the Wanganui River, delighted at the chance of a night ashore, and when the gangway was in place, who should step on to it to go ashore, but our friend, in full clerical dress—a Presbyterian minister! Poole laid his hand on his shoulder: "Sir, you eat pork chops for dinner, dress in plain clothes, and ask us to have a service! Sir, you are an impostor. Good morning, sir!"

Arriving at Christchurch, I crossed the mountains to Hokitika by coach, a lovely journey, in fine weather, of two days, twelve hours coaching each day. Below the Otira Pass there are miles of red birch, its growth almost that of a cedar, straight reddish stems, and horizontal branches, peculiar, too, in the forest, as having no underwood; it only flourishes at a high altitude. Very noticeable below it, too, is the magnificent fern, the Todea Superba, commonly called the Prince of Wales fern, from the shape of its feathery fronds, covered with bright green velvety pile, which cannot be preserved in dried specimens. Curious, too, that it flourishes near the snow line, but if brought down to the lowlands must be kept under glass.

I am, yours ever,
H. W. H.