play upon a harp, so called, a small, light instrument in that form, but without pedals, so light, that they can lift it with one hand; and yet the music they bring from it is surprising; one air after another, a little monotonously, but with great ease and a certain execution, and with the additional merit of being self-taught.
I imagine that there must be a great deal of musical taste thrown away here. There are pianos in almost every house, and one lady, who came to see me today, and whose mother was English, had been extremely well taught, and played with great taste. They attempted dancing, but having no masters, can only learn by what they hear. On the balcony, this evening, it was delightful, and the moon is a universal beautifier.
21st.—We walked about the city yesterday, and returned visits. The streets are clean, and some few churches tolerably handsome.
The Comicos came in the morning to offer us the centre box in the theatre, it being the benefit night of Doña Inocencia Martinez from Madrid, a favorite of the public, and, in fact, a pretty woman, and good comic actress. The theatre is small, and they say generally deserted, but last night it was crowded. The drop-scene represents the fine arts, who are so fat, that their condition here must be flourishing. We were, however, agreeably disappointed in the performance, which was the "Segunda Dama Duende," nearly a translation from the "Domino Noir," and very amusing; full of excellent coups-de-théatre. Doña Inocencia in her various characters, as domino,
