Page:Life in the Old World - Vol. II.djvu/140

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150
LIFE IN THE OLD WORLD.

Ghetto, the Jews'-quarter, where they still all live together, though not now as formerly within walls, which Pio Nono has had removed—but still in the midst of darkness and dirt, although not, properly speaking, in poverty.[1] And, finally, the modern Rome, with its Corso, Monte Pincio, and Piazza di Spagna,—all these, properly the chief parts of Rome, indicate themselves with the greatest clearness from this point. The characteristic physiognomy of these several portions of the city, the verdant Campagna, and around it the encircling mountains, here and there scattered with snow, the extensive prairie-wide views in the direction of the sea, make the view of Rome from the tower of the Capitol a magnificent spectacle.

The ruins of the imperial Rome, from the Capitoline rock, appear to occupy but a small space in comparison with the newer part of the city. But the aqueducts and monuments of the Campagna show the greatness of the old imperial city. For the Rome of the present day, with its hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, is merely a small remnant of the world-ruling city, which in its circuit is said to have con-

  1. They are preserved from poverty by their great industry and their fidelity to the command of Moses, “There shall be no poor amongst you!” The poor are in this respect an example, which the Christians do not equal. The narrow, dirty streets, and the dense population of the Ghetto, as well as the bad air, produce a depressing effect. But this population, which in great part labors out of doors, sitting in the streets, is cheerful, and obviously in comfortable circumstances; and I have been assured that the air there is healthy, far healthier than on the open Campagna.—Author's Note.