nevertheless; nay, become fully as immortal, as well here as hereafter. But if you visit Rome, then visit the galleries of the Vatican; return, again and again, to the Apollo, the Laocoon, and—the Bacchus, the first philanthropist! Neglect not, either, to visit Raphael's picture of the transfiguration, in the Pope's picture-gallery. Without having seen it, no one can have any idea of his genius. This is all I have to tell you of the treasures of the Vatican.
One day when I was walking alone in its halls, a gen-d'arme said to me, hastily:
“You must go out of this room!—the Pope is coming! He is coming from the Sistine chapel, where he has been at mass!”
“Oh, let me remain here, I pray you!” I replied. “I should like to see the Pope!”
“Well, yes! but you must come out of the way, and fall upon your knees when he comes!”
“Sicuro!”
And we waited. My gen-d'arme protected me against the servants, who would have me out, and drilled me—“Now come here! now stand there! now fall on your knees!”
The Pope came, preceded by a splendid train. Cardinals, in purple mantles and ermine, bore their staves more proudly than princes, now-a-days; proudest of all, Cardinal Antonelli,—a very picturesque figure. The Pope, in scarlet attire, brought up the rear;—good tempered, stout, and jolly, without pretense, and without grandezza.
February 4th.—Yesterday, we saw Shakspeare's Othello acted at the Argentine theatre. The princi-
