Page:Life in the Old World - Vol. II.djvu/227

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LIFE IN THE OLD WORLD.
237

ing the Papal tiara, brilliant with gold and jewels.[1] The ceremonies and the music appeared to me similar to those of Christmas day. The Pope, now, as then, is robed and disrobed; his feet and his garments are kissed; incense is offered, bells are rung, and there is a great ado; the only difference being that every thing now is on a more pompous scale. The throng in the church was immense, but very quiet. The French military were arranged on both sides, the whole length of the nave. When the Pope elevated the host, the whole mass of people fell upon their knees, trumpets were blown, and beautiful, triumphant music sounded from the cupola, and, as on Christmas day, it was a moment of the most elevating emotion.

After this, the throng poured out of the church to receive the benediction of the Pope. We followed with the stream. The French troops were drawn up in the square before St. Peter's, in straight figures and lines; around these shone a variegated crowd of people, in the joyous sunshine. The showy red and white head-dresses of the country-people were adorned with flowers. Every eye was directed to the balcony of St. Peter's, which by degrees was filled with the white-hooded bishops, and they waited now to see the Pope come forward. In about twenty minutes, he made his appearance, borne aloft above the white-headed bishops, upon his crimson throne, with his peacock's feathers and the triple crown around his

  1. This probably was a present from the ex-Queen of Spain, which is said to have cost 80,000 scudi.—Author's Note.