figures, and they are only kept in check by the fear of the bayonet. But whose fault is it? Out of a population of four hundred thousand, Naples is said to have forty thousand lazaroni, or men who live from day to day like the sparrows, or flies, without any decided work, or object in life. And whilst the king lives in delicacy at his pleasure-palace at Gaeta, and the priests in Naples drive about in their carriages, or sit at the cafés, drinking and smoking, the children lie naked about the streets, even at night. The priests here have a much worse and more worldly physiognomy than in Rome, and they seem never to think about exhibiting themselves in their spiritual character. One cannot avoid the disagreeable impression that the people here actually lack all spiritual food, all means of elevation both of soul and body; and, that they are purposely kept in this brutish condition that they may the better be governed by—sheer force.
And such is the state in the much-sung-of Naples, the old Parthenope, and the capital of Magna Grecia! The city has a peculiar interest for foreigners from the scenes which its popular life affords, and the beauty of its promenades and squares surrounding its bay. Villa Reale, with its marble churches and statues, its beautiful trees, shady alleys, and fountains; its air and the view over the sea, is the crown of all public grounds and promenades of the city. To-morrow, in company with some old and new acquaintance, I shall visit the remarkable places on the shore of Pozzuoli.
Ischia, June 14th.—During one's life abroad, the
