Page:Life in the Old World - Vol. II.djvu/402

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412
LIFE IN THE OLD WORLD.

song of praise in honor of Jesus, and the Virgin, of San Gennaro and all the saints, who receive a vivat! The singing is beautiful, fresh, and with a kind of wild energy, like the figures from which it proceeds, and who might serve as types of the Neapolitan popular character in the lower regions. If a thoughtless boy or girl approaches too near any one of these relations of San Gennaro, amidst their holy zeal, they receive a hearty slap or blow from the old woman.

When this concluding song is over, they make a movement with hand and head to the bust of San Gennaro, a short salutation, which seems to say, “Thanks and farewell, cousin, till next time!” and then, without further ado, go off to their breakfasts.

Amongst the spectators, one sees some who weep, some who smile, and although they who press forward to kiss the bottle are not numerous in comparison with the throng, yet they form themselves into a close row on each side of the procession which advances from the chapel of San Gennaro with his bust and blood, to the high altar in the choir of the church, where again the bottle is exhibited to the observation of the kissing and kneeling multitudes. And this is continued the whole day, the officiating priests relieving each other every hour.

We placed ourselves on one occasion among the kneeling people because we wished to have as near a view of the bottle as was possible. The holy father, who was then carrying it, supposing us to be of the true church, offered it to my young friend for her to kiss, when she, astonished, drew herself hastily back. He looked at her with a glance that expressed surprise