our delighted vision. Immediately in—and first to greet our eyes, rises a great mass of castellated rock with a dome-like summit, standing like the castle of some feudal chief, guarding the narrow passage of the river. Soon other peaks make their appearance, one by one, to the number of twelve or fourteen. Grand, rugged, and picturesque they are, united at the base, but each asserting its individuality, as it rears its rocky head aloft, and assumes a shape peculiar to itself. Their rugged sides are festooned with vines and flowers screening the mouth of many a cavern that opens among the rocks. The accumulation of leaves and dried grass among these peaks makes fine materials for the mountain fires that break out from time to time. It was our fortune on one occasion to spend the night at the foot of "Castle Rock" when these fires were in full blaze; the effect was wonderful. The mountains were girded by a fiery chain, its glowing links stretching over rocks and trees, and its sparkling folds falling loosely down the sides. These fires are hailed as a boon by the people, because they clear the hills for a fresh and more vigorous crop of grass for fuel, and drive away any wild animals that may be lurking in the tangled mountain growth. As we continue up the river we are met by a series of surprises. Mountains on both sides, in endless variety, show themselves as we proceed. Waterfalls sparkle as the little streams pitch over some precipitous height in their course down the narrow ravines. Quail and partridges call to their companions on the hills, pheasants sometimes fly out of the fields beside us, and everything indicates that we are in a place where Nature and not man reigns supreme.
