able, thoughtless Esaus, unworthy their high birthright.... absorbed at home by the lust of gain, the
love of show, abroad, they see only the equipages, the
fine clothes, the food. They have no heart for the
idea, for the destiny of our own great nation: how
can they feel the spirit that is struggling in this?”
The condition of Italy has been greatly altered for the better since Margaret wrote these words, thirty-six years ago; but the American traveller of this type is to-day, to all intents and purposes, what he was then.
Margaret left Milan before the end of this September, to return to Rome. She explored with delight the great Certosa of Pavia, and in Parnia saw the Coreggio pictures, of which she says: “A wonderful beauty it is that informs them,—not that which is the chosen food of my soul, yet a noble beauty, and which did its message to me also." Parnia and Modena appeared to her "obliged to hold their breath while their poor, ignorant sovereigns skulk in corners, hoping to hide from the coming storm."
Before reaching Rome, Margaret made a second visit to Florence. The liberty of the press had been recently established in Tuscany, under happy auspices. This freedom took effect in the establishment of two liberal papers, Alba (The Dawn) and Patria, needless to translate. The aim of these was to educate the youth and the working classes, by promoting fearlcssness in thought and temperance in action.
The creation of the National Guard bad given confidence to the people. Shortly before Margaret's arrival this event had been celebrated by a grand public festival, preceded by a general reconciliation of public and private differences, and culminating in a general embracing, and exchanging of banners. Margaret
