of sand and quartz, united by cement of lime. On the afternoon we arrived at the usual fording place of the Arkansas, and, to our great satisfaction, we perceived on the other bank of the river a corrál of wagons, belonging to some smaller companies that had started before us. Riding over on horseback, we shook hands with our friends and joined them in a hearty buffalo dinner. The crossing with the wagons was deferred till next day. The river is here several hundred yards wide, very sandy but not deep, and generally easily forded. The road, which continues to run up the river on its northern bank, leads to Bent's Fort, and is considered more practicable for an army, while the more difficult but shorter route by crossing here the Arkansas, and striking southwest for the Cimarron, is preferred by the Santa Fe traders.
June 10.–The whole morning was spent in crossing the wagons. To each of the large wagons from 8 to 10 couple of mules were put, and in about six hours all stood safe on the other shore. We rested yet till evening, and provided ourselves with wood and water, because it was doubtful whether we should find any within 50 miles in the sandy region, equally destitute of wood and water, that lay now before us. My barometrical observations, made on the river bank of the Arkansas at the crossing place, showed an elevation above the sea of 2.700 feet, the highest point yet got on the road. From here our ascent will be more rapid, and without interruption, till we reach, near Santa Fe, an elevation of 7,000 feet.
Towards evening we started again. Our road led through deep sand. Grass was very scanty, but there was quite an abundance of sand-plants; and the ground was so covered with the most variegated flowers, especially the gay Gaillardia pulchella, that it looked more like an immense flower garden than a sandy desert. At first ascending a little, we travelled afterwards over a high plain, with good road, and pitched our night camp on "Battle Ground," (15 miles from Arkansas,) with poor, dry grass, but a small water-pool. The name of this camp refers to the small band of Texans under Colonel Snively, who, in 1843, here fell in with the vanguard of General Armijo's army. With their rifles and bowie knives they made a dreadful havoc among them; and the few Mexicans who escaped frightened Armijo so with their reports, that he, with his whole army, ran back to Santa Fe.
June 11.–Travelled about 18 miles before we halted, without seeing wood or water. Buffalo have entirely disappeared; not even buffalo chips, the usual substitute for firewood, were to be seen. The high plain between the Arkansas and Cimarron, whose elevation above the sea is about 3,000 feet, is the most desolate part on the whole Santa Fe road, and the first adventurers in Santa Fe trade stood many severe trials here. Within the distance of 66 miles, from the Arkansas to the lower springs of Cimarron, there is not one water-course or water pool to be depended upon in the dry season. The soil is generally dry and hard; the vegetation poor; scarcely anything grows there but short and parched buffalo grass and some cacti. Though the horizon is very distant, there is no shrub or tree to fix your eye upon, and no other game attracts your attention except once in awhile a wild antelope, which is apt to allure you to a useless chase. But, for one quality this desert is distinguished. When your patience has been worn out by the long ride, and by the monotonous sameness of the scenery; when your lips are parched from thirst, and a friend at your side, in cruel consolation, reminds you of the luxuries of
