Page:Memoir of a tour to northern Mexico.djvu/48

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48

the Sacramento mountains. In the plain grows mezquite and other shrubbery; the mountains east and west of the valley are steep, rough, and apparently formed by igneous rocks. About halfway from Sacramento to Chihuahua we got the first sight of the city. I was taken at once with the beautiful site of the place. The mountains from both sides meet there in the middle, as if they intended to shut up the valley; and amidst this circle of mountains lies Chihuahua, with its churches and steeples, with its wide and clean streets, with its flat roofed, commodious houses, with its aqueduct and evergreen alameda–there it lies, as bright, shining and innocent, as if it were a city of "brotherly love"–but my enchantment should not last very long. In the afternoon we entered the city. crowd of ragged loafers and vagabonds received us at the entrance as "Tejanos," (Texans,) the usual abusive appellation to Americans. The officers of the custom-house examined the contents of my wagon very carefully, and were rather at a loss how to account for the various instruments, packs of plants, and heaps of rocks that I carried with me; however, they let me pass. I stopped at the American hotel in Chihuahua, kept by Messrs. Rittels & Stevenson, and became soon acquainted with most of the foreign residents there. From them I learned, for the first time, that there was no prospect of peace; that General Wool was ordered to Chihuahua, and that in consequence of it great excitement existed in There was a Mexican war party in Chihuahua, and a more moderate party. The then governor of the State belonged to the latter party: but on the next day after my arrival he abdicated, or was rather forced to abdicate, to make place for the leader of the other party. Such bloodless revolutions, brought on by intrigue and money, had been so common in Chihuahua, that the State was sometimes ruled every month by a different governor. Under present circumstances the change of government was more important to the State, as well as to the foreign residents of Chihuahua. The new governor, chosen by the war party, was Angel Trias, a man conspicuous for his wealth, for his hatred against the Americans, and for his ambition for power. His inauguration took place with military and ecclesiastical pomp, patriotic sentiments increased rapidly, and occasionally a "death to the Americans!" was heard. The war fever soon grew very high; volunteers were drilled every day, and paraded through the streets; a foundry for cannon was established, ammunition provided for, and threats against the lives and property of foreigners became very common. Paying no more attention to those warlike preparations than I could help, I pursued, in the meanwhile, the scientific object of my excursion to Chihuahua by collecting plants, examining the geological character of the surrounding country, and making in the yard of my dwelling barometrical and astronomical observations. The prospect of the continuation of my journey to California was at present rather gloomy. However, General Wool's army could be expected in Chihuahua within a month; and if the excitement during that time should become too high, I intended to retire to some more quiet place. As I had presented the passport which I received in New Mexico from Governor Armijo to the authorities of Chihuahua, and they had acknowledged and countersigned it, I entertained no doubt that I was at liberty to leave the place again whenever I chose.

On August 29, five days after my arrival in Chihuahua, an occurrence, trifling in itself, brought me in contact with the Mexican authorities.