still kept within the bounds of harmony. Against the glowing depth of sapphire sky, it was superb.
In and out, up and down, there was no end of novelty. One market-place was devoted entirely to the coarse potteries of the place, — jars for water and cooking, table articles and kitchen utensils, all good in shape, with an excellent glaze, and some attempt at decoration. Their fire-proof qualities were tested by hundreds of small fires of mesquite and cedar, which kept them bubbling here and there with boiling soup and vegetables. At the Zacatecano Hotel, for dinner, we had our first experience of real Mexican cookery. A very good onion soup was succeeded in regular courses by steak dressed with mint; a good omelet; rice, prepared with curry, tomatoes and garlic; chicken, in a sort of fricassee; cold tongue, with a dressing of lettuce and eggs; cauliflower; sweet custards; and good but bitter coffee.
We entered this country so incased in barbed points of prejudice that we are, like hedgehogs, bristling all over, and ready to prick against every thing. We have found the people courteous beyond expression. The poorest laborer as gracefully lifts his hat as the high-bred gentle-
