time, he and his relatives were being housed in our luncheon tent and entertained at our expense, and we felt that, everything considered, we had the highest claim on his good offices. Accordingly, on his entering our tent after dinner, I made him a neat little speech through our interpreter, closing by the presentation of the revolver, which I felt sure would draw forth a reply overflowing with gratitude. What, however, was our surprise when the Sheikh, taking the weapon in his hand, examined it, and then deliberately laid it on the table. He then drew from his girdle a revolver of much larger calibre and somewhat similar make, assuring us that he had already more than enough of such gifts. A consultation was then held amongst ourselves, and we agreed to substitute two English sovereigns for the revolver, which I gladly reclaimed. This had the desired effect; and the Sheikh made a solemn promise that nothing should prevent an early start on Monday morning. It appeared, however, that his brother Ali was by no means pleased at the favours we were heaping upon Mohammed. He sent a private message, therefore, to us to request that we should give no more presents to his brother, but keep the rest for him!
Thus ended this eventful week, and everything being now arranged, we were in a position to pass the following day in a comparatively contented frame of mind.
The next day being Advent Sunday we had prayers in the tent, and just as they were concluded the distant tiring of guns announced the approach of a large body of pilgrims returning from Mecca on their way to Tunis and Algiers. We ascended the hill behind our camp, and beheld a procession of 500 or 600 people with camels winding their way along the base of the mountains from the pass of the Haj Road, and deploying in the plain behind the Fort. It was a curious sight. Some were clad in bright garments, others in brown or black cloaks. In front was carried a large banner bearing the crescent, and there was one single horseman who made his way to the Fort. We presumed he was in command of the guard. Sheikh Mohammed with his attendants proceeded to receive the pilgrims, who were now under his protection, and they soon were busy preparing to camp for the night. Gordon took a photograph of the party.
We were early astir on Monday morning for our start up the Wâdy el Arabah, and on this day we had our first heavy shower of rain. Hitherto, day after day of more or less hot sunshine had succeeded each other; but during Saturday the temperature had fallen (the maximum only reaching
