rally more or less thoruy, such as the Zizyphus, the Seyal Acacia, and the Salvadora Persica; all requiring care in order to avoid them. Amongst these were the "apples of Sodom" (Solanum Sodomœum), a small yellowish fruit of a solanaceous plant, growing to about eight feet high, with prickly branches and a flower of a blue or purple colour, exactly like that of a variety of potato. Amongst other plants was the osher tree (Calotropis procera), indicating truly tropical conditions of climate; also Balanites Ægyptiaca, Retama rœtem, Morina aptera, and oleanders.[1] Amongst the dense groves and clumps of small trees birds were fluttering about, ring doves (Turtur risorius), sometimes in flocks, together with bulbuls and finches. It was a lively and pleasant scene to one who had been traversing the comparatively lifeless tract of the Arabah Valley for so many days. But what was still more novel, were the evidences of human industry which we encountered as we approached Es Safieh. We passed over several open spaces where men were ploughing with a yoke of oxen; many trenches had been dug for irrigating purposes, and we were soon to witness the systematic manner in which irrigation is carried on by the industrious inhabitants of this part of The Ghôr.
Proceeding onwards in single file, we found ourselves within the village of the Ghawarneh. This had a most curious appearance, not unlike an extensive encampment of gipsies, such as may be seen in Hungary and along the banks of the River Danube. The tents, formed of dark cloth of camels' hair, supported on poles and rafters, were arranged amongst the thickets in lines or "squares," and tenanted by men, women, and children, together with sheep, goats, dogs, and poultry. As we passed along we heard the sound of the corn mills, or of coffee-grinding, the bleating of sheep, and barking of the dogs; but the attitude of the dark inhabitants was quiet and friendly, and they readily returned our salaams.[2] Having traversed the village we came to an open piece of ground surrounded by trees and bushes, and here we camped about noon.
The village of Es Safieh and its inhabitants, the Ghawarnehs, were visited by Canon Tristram,[3] who during his short stay does not appear to have been as well treated as was the case with ourselves during a sojourn of ten days.[4] Yet it must be admitted that he made good use of the time
