Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/171

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THE VALLEY OF THE ARABAH, AND WESTERN PALESTINE.
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sides of the limestone hills, sometimes crossing ledges of bare slippery rock, on which our horses had much ado to keep their footing. In some places the rounded form of the hills, the close herbage, and the numerous sheep-tracks running along the sides, reminded me of the chalky downs of the South of England; and we noticed several flocks of white sheep and black goats of the Jâhâlin Arabs pasturing on the fresh grass and tender herbs which the recent rains were causing to spring up. On reaching the summit we noticed a large cairn a short distance to our left, on which Major Kitchener had planted his theodolite; and, assisted by Mr. Armstrong, was taking bearings on several prominent points and objects which here came into view. We were now at an elevation of about 3,500 feet above the Salt Sea, and consequently we were in a commanding position for a view in every direction. Far below, towards the east, was the deep depression of The Ghôr, holding in its spacious lap the blue waters of the Salt Sea. Beyond the hills and table-land of Moab, and towards the south-east, the green oasis of Es Satieh, which had sheltered us for so many days. The whole surroundings of the sea, except the northern end, lay spread out before us like a map. There was the Lissân, projecting far into its waters from the eastern side, its white surface glistering in the morning sun. Far away towards the south were seen the range of hills bordering the Wâdy el Arabah, and conspicuous amongst the several heights rose the conical summit of Mount Hor. At our feet the limestone hills resembled a continuous sea of ridges and furrows, tumultuously thrown together, and presenting every variety of brown, yellow, and light green shades amongst the hollows, while the dark brown beds of chert imparted definite form and outline to the ridges and scarps. The white table-land of Jebel Usdum, deeply scored and furrowed, was just visible behind the darker cliffs of limestone to the south of our position. The cairn on which we stood was of large dimensions, about 50 feet in diameter, circular in form, and constructed of large blocks of chert. The centre was hollow and about 10 feet in depth; it probably marks the grave of some great chief.

We camped for luncheon on the rolling plains of "The Wilderness of Paran," which, if the hollows were cultivated, might produce abundant crops of wheat and other grain. The only inhabitant now is the Jâhâlin shepherd and his flock, and a few wild animals. In some places the herbage was freckled over with multitudes of little white snails (Helix seetzeni and H. vesialis), covering the ground and climbing