that looked unpleasant in the morning now lurched over our heads in a way that made Burgener's "schnell, nur schnell," almost lift one off one's feet. After the usual habit of séracs they lurched and staggered, but did not fall, and we got down to the lower glacier much out of breath, but otherwise uninjured. Reaching the neighbourhood of our lantern we sought diligently but found it not, so we made for a châlet Burgener knew of.
We found the fair proprietress feeding pigs. She brought us milk, and, though of unexceptionable quality, the more fastidious members of the party would have liked it better had not some of the numerous denizens of her abode and person previously sought euthanasia in the flowing bowl.
Happily the zigzags did not take long to unwind, and at 5.30 p.m. we were warmly welcomed by Monsieur and Madame Couttet and much excellent champagne.
The Aiguille des Charmoz—without Guides.
The ascent was not repeated for several years, but at length Monsieur Dunod and F. Simond found their way to the southern summit, and the following year they recovered the axe we had left on its northern peak. The mountain soon after became the most popular climb in the Montenvers district, and the traverse of the five peaks (as it is now
