snow, but was merely plastered to the depth of a few inches; the alternations of sun and frost had converted this, for the most part, into ice. It is needless to say that here the avalanche trench thinned out to insignificant proportions, and we were able to effect its traverse without difficulty. The stones, however, being no longer deflected into a well-marked track, hummed past our ears in any but a pleasing manner, and one, which struck a crag just above us, burst into splinters, both Burgener and I being hit by the fragments. Under these circumstances my companion made most desperate efforts to get out of range, and, as usually happens when he exerts his strength to the full, the axe gave way, its handle breaking in two. I promptly handed over mine, but unfortunately it was blunt and called forth many uncomplimentary remarks concerning amateurs and London-made axes. None the less it did its work, and we got into the northern branch of the couloir, where we were comparatively safe.
This proved to be filled almost entirely with ice, so we struck on to the rocks on our right as soon as it was possible to effect a lodgment. Burgener, being greatly excited by an almost-won victory, and being, moreover, unburdened by any luggage, and free from the chest-contracting bondage of a coat, dashed up at a pace that called forth pitiable gasps from his Monsieur. The latter began to realise that a porter's "lot is not a happy one, happy
