be upheaved, and, caught by the wind, sailed away, throwing extraordinary shadows on the fleecy floor below. This, like some previous halts, was brought to an end by a sudden uprush of icy cloud and a sprinkle of snow. At 2.15 p.m. we left the top and sped hastily down the slope. In ever worsening weather, we sprawled and scrambled along the ridge as fast as we could go. Collie, despite the changed appearance of the mountain caused by the rapidly falling snow, followed our route of the morning with unwavering certainty. At exactly the right point he turned off the ridge (5.10 p.m.), and led us through the wet slush of new snow, down the rib, to the point where our tracks of the morning could be seen in the couloir. He preferred, however, to keep to the rib, and after a little winding and dodging we once more got on to our morning's line below the part where we had taken to the couloir, and followed it to the glacier and the Bergschrund. This latter was in a very soft and dangerous state, and required careful engineering. Once over (6.5 p.m.), we ran along the snow fields and down on to the stony slopes above the Couvercle.
Making our way across to the Pierre à Béranger we picked up our traps, and after a short meal we started at 7.40 p.m. for the Montenvers, through a persistent drizzle. We had intended to go down to Chamonix that night, and in consequence had sent on our baggage, but on our arrival we found it
