Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/101

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CHAPTER 20

TUCKS AND PLAITS

Tucks—Nun's Tucks—Curved Tucks—Cross Tucking—Laying Plaits—Stitching Plaits—Supporting Inlaid Plaits

TUCKS should be marked with a measure so that they will be of even width.

NUN'S TUCKS are wide tucks usually two inches or more in width. The method of making all tucks is the same more or less, but the wider the tucks, the greater the difficulty in keeping the tucks and the distance between them even, especially when the bottom of a skirt is circular. In such a case the tucks must be marked and basted before the stitching is done. The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0184.pngIll. 184. Tucks

Cut the gage from a piece of cardboard, and from the end measure down the width of first tuck, making a slash and a bias cut to meet the slash. (Ill. 184.) Make a second cut as shown in Illustration 184, allowing for width of space and second tuck.

It is quicker and more accurate to make a gage of this sort in measuring short spaces, such as hems, tucks and the spaces between them, than to use the tape measure, as sometimes the eye becomes confused at the small marks on the tape, and mistakes are made that will prove quite serious.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0185.pngIll. 185. Curved Tucks

CURVED TUCKS—Curved tucks are sewed on a curved line which makes the under side fuller than the upper side. Mark the edge of tuck with tailors' tacks (page 85) or pins, fold material on this mark and baste quite close to the edge (Ill. 185.) Mark the depth of the tuck from this edge, using a gage to keep the tuck an even width and baste. In sewing the tuck the extra fulness must be eased on the under side of the tuck as you sew. Be careful to distribute this fulness evenly so that it does not fall in bunches or draw the edge of the tuck out of place.

CROSS TUCKING is an effective trimming for waists, blouses, dresses, etc. All

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