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The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0216.pngIll. 216. The Pocket for the Bound Pockethole garment with the center of the strip over the line of the pocket. (Ill. 214.) Baste the strip to the garment. (Ill. 214.) Run a basting line through the tailors' tacks, and through the center of the strip and stitch the strip to the garment ⅛ of an inch each side of this basting line.

Cut the pocket opening through the garment and strip in a clean, even line. Push the binding through the slash to the wrong side of the garment and baste it into position letting it form an ⅛-of-an-inch binding at the edge of the opening. (Ill. 215.) Slip-stitch the corners of the binding so they will not fray.

Cut the pocket sections of satin or lining material about seven inches long and let them extend about ½ an inch beyond each end of the opening (Ill. 216), shaping them as illustrated. Face the under section of the pocket three inches from the top with the material of the garment. (Ill. 216.) Baste the pocket sections to the binding on the inside of the garment as illustrated.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0217.pngIll. 217. The Welt and Inner Section of the Welt Pocket The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0218.pngIll. 218. The Welt and Outer Section of the Welt Pocket

Sew the pocket sections to the binding by hand, using one of the hemming stitch

Baste and stitch the pocket sections together to form a pocket and overcast the raw edge.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0219.pngIll. 219. The two Pocket Sections Stitched and Overcast Together A POCKET WITH A WELT—Mark the line for the opening of the pocket with tailors' tacks. (Chapter 16, page 85.) Run a line of basting through the tailors' tacks to mark the opening even more clearly, letting the basting show through both sides of the material. If the pocket is to be cut through more than one thickness of material baste around the marking so that the materials can not slip when the opening is cut.

Cut an interlining for the welt ⅜ of an inch smaller at the top and ends than the welt pattern. Turn the edges of the welt over on the interlining at the top and ends, mitering it neatly at the corners. (Ill. 217.) Baste and stitch it to match the rest of the garment and press it carefully.

The pocket is cut in two sections from lining material. The shape of the inner section is shown in Illustration 217. The outer section is cut like the inner but deep enough to form a lining for the welt. (Ill. 218.) The