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The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0236.pngIll. 236. Eyelet make a loop that will slip easily over the button after the two raw ends of the loop are tacked together. These ends may be tacked to the back of a button (Ill. 235), or sewed between an edge and its facing (Ill. 234), depending on the style effect required.

EYELETS are holes made and worked in a garment to hold a cord or buttons.

The method of making them is shown in Illustration 236. Pierce the eyelet-hole with a stiletto.

Make running stitches around the circle, place the hole over the forefinger of the left hand and buttonhole the edge, covering the running stitches. (Ill. 236.)

Work from right to left, as shown in the first figure of Illustration 236.

METHODS OF SEWING ON BUTTONS are shown in Illustration 237. Always use a coarse single thread in preference to a fine double one. In placing buttons in position, lap the edges of the garment, and push a pin through at the outer end of the buttonhole. This will bring the button exactly opposite the buttonhole. Make a knot in the thread, push the needle through from the right side so that the knot will be directly under the button. Place the button in position. Bring the thread up through a hole in the button and down through the hole diagonally opposite as shown in the second figure of Illustration 237. Place a pin under the thread on top of the button, in order to keep the thread loose, and make a cross-stitch through the remaining holes. (Ill. 237.) The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0237.pngIll. 237. Sewing on Buttons

Repeat the stitches until the button is securely fastened. Remove the pin, draw the button away from the material as far as possible and wind the working thread tightly several times around the threads between the button and the material, thus forming a thread shank for the button. If a button is too closely sewed to the garment, it will not have room to rest easily in the buttonhole and will crowd the latter out of shape and make the spacing seem irregular. The loose sewing and the winding increase the durability of the work and lessen the strain on the button.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0238.pngIll. 238. Covering Button-Molds The first illustration shows another way of sewing on a button in which the stitches are not crossed. This method is used in dress and coat making, as the stitches are considered more ornamental. The third illustration shows the method of sewing on a shank button. Make the stitches parallel with the edge when sewing on this button so that the strain will come on the shank.

COVERING BUTTON-MOLDS—Cut a thin piece of sheet wadding the shape of the mold but about ⅜ of an inch smaller all around. (Ill. 238.)

Place it on top of the mold. (Ill. 238.)