Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/128

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124
THE NEW DRESSMAKER

Where two edges are joined as in a waist with a fancy lining both edges should be rolled separately. Place the rolled edge of the outer part directly beneath the rolled edge of the under part. (Ill. 267.) Sew them together with running stitches about one-quarter of an inch long just below the lower roll.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0269.pngIll. 269. Diagonal Stitch Used as a Trimming CROSS-STITCH, FRENCH-KNOT EMBROIDERY, BRAIDING, BEADING AND EMBROIDERY are worked from transfer designs. Designs for every kind of fashionable hand trimming will be found in Needle-Art. Every transfer gives illustrated directions for making the stitches suitable for that design.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0270.pngIll. 270. Double Overcasting COMBINATION RUNNING AND CROSS-STITCH is used as a trimming and around the edges of waists, dresses and children's clothes and to hold the hems of facings. (Ill. 268.) Work two rows of running stitches about three-eighths of an inch apart. Make the stitches about five-eighths of an inch long and the space between the stitches one-half an inch. Fasten your thread at the extreme right and bring the needle out at the lower left-hand corner of the space, near the running stitch. Insert the needle at the upper right-hand corner and bring it out at the lower right-hand corner of the same space near the running stitch. Insert the needle at the upper left-hand corner near the running stitch. This completes the first cross-stitch. (Ill. 268.) Take a long slanting stitch at the under side of the garment, bringing the needle out at the lower left-hand corner of the next space. Work a cross-stitch in each space according to the instructions just given.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0271.pngIll. 271. Cross Double Overcasting TRIMMING STITCHES such as double overcasting, cross double overcasting, diagonal stitch, etc., may be worked in rope silk, wool or fine chenille on garments of silk or wool. In mercerized embroidery cotton these stitches may be used on garments of cotton materials.

DIAGONAL STITCH is used as a trimming and to hold hems and facings at the edges of necks, armholes, tunics, etc. As many rows may be used as desired. Use a Butterick smocking transfer with the dots three-eighths of an inch apart. Stamp two rows of dots for every row of diagonal stitches. (Ill. 269.)

Fasten the thread at the right * and bring the needle up through the first dot in the lower row. Insert the needle one dot to the left in the upper row and take a stitch straight down bringing the needle straight up through the dot directly beneath in the lower row.

Repeat from * till the end of the row. (Ill. 269.) This trimming works up quickly and is very effective in contrasting color.