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9
THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT FOR DRESS MAKING

Be sure to have the neck and armhole exactly right. Stitch the seams through the bastings. If you can't remove them afterward, it doesn't matter in this case. Press the seams open. (Chapter 32.) It is not necessary to bind or overcast them. Run a strong basting around the armholes and neck to keep them from stretching, turning the neck edges under three-eighths of an inch.

Make up the single sleeve you cut with the rest of the lining, following the directions given with the pattern. Baste it into the lining and try it on to be sure that it is the right length and sets comfortably on the arm. Fit the sleeve as close to the arm as possible. Then rip the sleeve out. Stitch and press open the sleeve seams.

Stitch the fronts of the lining about an eighth of an inch back of each fold edge.

Mark the waistline by a line of colored thread through the waistline perforations.

Place the lining on the dress-form, leaving the front edges open temporarily. Pad between the lining and the form with tissue-paper, cotton rags or wadding until it tits perfectly. Be careful in padding not to stretch or draw the lining or to let the padding get in bunches. Pack it until the front edges just meet and then pin them together. Then sew them with an overhand stitch. (Ill. 2.) If you have prominent or uneven hips or a round abdomen, place the wadding where it is needed. When you pad below the waistline, The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0003.pngIll. 3. The Sleeve-Form pin the wadding to the form so that it will not slip. When you have padded the front out to its right proportions, turn up the lining and cover the padding at the hips with a thin piece of lining material, tacking the covering to the dress-form.

Place a piece of lining material inside each armhole, turn in the armhole edges three-eighths of an inch and fell them to it. (Ill. 2.)

FOR a figure that varies quite decidedly from the average it is better to use a special dress-form. Alter your pattern and make up the lining as described in the earlier part of this chapter. Send your finished lining to a firm that makes dress-forms and has a special form made from it, but a size smaller than your lining. When you get the form, put the lining on it and pad it as already described.

Or a woman of this type of figure can get an adjustable dress-form. Get it a size smaller, adjust it to represent your figure, cover it with your lining and pad it as directed here.

A WOMAN who sews for a number of people will have to use an adjustable form with a fitted lining for each person she sews for. Mark these linings distinctly with the name of the person for whom it was made. The form will have to be adjusted and padded each time a lining is used.

In using a dress-form, the skirt can be put on the form and the form placed on the table. It is easier to work with in this position.

In fitting a coat the form should be dressed with the waist and skirt over which the coat will be worn.

THE SLEEVE-FORM. Take the finished sleeve of the lining and pad it firmly and evenly. Place a piece of lining material over the padding at the wrist, turn in the Waist edges three-eighths of an inch, and fell them to the piece of material. (Ill. 3.)

Slip a piece of lining material in the armhole of the sleeve. Turn in the edge of the under portion of the sleeve three-eighths of an inch and fell the fold edge to the lining material, (Ill. 3.) Pad the upper part of the sleeve until it looks as nearly as possible like the arm. Turn in the upper edge of the piece of lining three-eighths of an inch and fell it to the upper part of the sleeve. (Ill. 3.)

You can use the sleeve-form for either the right or left arm, and you will find it very useful for trimming or draping sleeves.