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Run a colored thread along the outline to mark the center line for the feather-stitching. To make the single stitch, knot the thread and then bring the needle up through the material. Hold the thread down over the line with the left thumb. Insert the needle a little to the left of this line, and take a short, slanting stitch toward the right, drawing the needle out while the thread is held down smoothly by the left thumb. Then hold down the thread on the center line and take a stitch of equal length on the right side and draw it out as before.

For the double combination, take two stitches to the left, and two to the right each time before crossing the center line, and for the triple combination, take three stitches. The beauty of feather-stitching depends on its evenness. Illustrations 276 and 277 show ornamental designs.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0278.pngIll. 278. Making a Bar Tack The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0279.pngIll. 279. Barred on Ends

BAR TACKS make a very neat and serviceable finish for the ends of seams, tucks and plaits, and the corners of collars, pockets and pocket-laps of tailored garments. Illustration 278 shows the process of making the simple bar tack, generally used as a stay for pocket openings. Mark the length desired for the tack, stick the needle through the entire thickness of the goods, down on one side, up on the opposite, and repeat several times, according to the required strength of the tack. Then without breaking off the thread, make one short stitch across one end of the long ones, and continue stitching closely all the way across, firmly covering the threads of the long stitches. Keep these cross-stitches close together, and while working, press the long stitches with the needle, to produce a cord-like effect.

On garments having a finish of machine-stitches at pocket openings, etc., the bar tack, with small bars crossing the ends of the plain bar, is more ornamental. (Ill. 279.) The process of making is similar to that of the simple bar tack, with small bars worked in after the long one has been finished.

ARROWHEAD TACKS are used at the top or bottom of plaits and laps and at the ends of seams and pocket openings. (Ills. 280, 281, 282 and 283.)

First make an outline of the arrow with chalk or pencil. Bring the needle up at point A, then take a small stitch at point B as shown by the position of the needle in Illustration 280. Bring the needle down at point C (Ill. 281), up very close to point A along the line CA (Ill. 281), and take another stitch at point B close under the first one, and down very close to point C along the line CA. (Ill. 282.) The needle must go in on the chalk line BC and come up on the chalk line BA, keeping the outline of the triangle. Each successive stitch below point B will be a little longer than the previous one. Repeat this

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0280.pngIll. 280. Outline of Arrowhead The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0281.pngIll. 281. Second Movement The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0282.pngIll. 282. Third Movement