Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/137

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133
APPLIED TRIMMINGS, RUFFLES, EMBROIDERY AND LACE

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0304.pngIll. 304. Band Covering Joining of Ruffle RUFFLE, divide both ruffle and garment in quarters and mark with pins or colored thread. Gather the ruffle and baste it to the garment. Turn the raw edges up on the garment and cover with a narrow bias band which can be bought by the piece with the edges turned ready for use. (Ill. 304.) This finish may be used on either the right or wrong side of the garment. Frequently this finish is used on berthas or scalloped edges that are not lined or faced.


The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0305.pngIll. 305. Embroidery Facing EMBROIDERY EDGING USED AS A FACING is shown in Illustration 305. The plain material above the embroidery is applied as the facing. Crease the edging off at the depth it is to extend beyond the garment. Baste the material along the crease so that the seam will come toward the inside of the garment. Then stitch the seam. Now turn the edging down, fold in the raw edge at the top, and hem down as a facing. The facing should be no wider than necessary to make a neat joining.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0306.pngIll. 306. Embroidery Joined In a Tuck TO JOIN EMBROIDERY IN A TUCK, make several tucks in the plain material above the embroidery if it is wide enough. Then measure carefully the amount for the space between the tucks, the under part of the tucks, and the seam. Cut away the superfluous material and join the edging to the garment. Crease the tuck with the seam directly in the fold so that the raw edges will be encased in the tuck. When the materials of the garment and the embroidery are similar, and there are several tucks above and below the seam, the joining is imperceptible (Ill. 306).

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0307.pngIll. 307. Insertion Inset with Rolled Hem EMBROIDERY MAY BE INSERTED by different methods. When a straight-edge insertion is used, the plain material may be cut away at each side of the embroidery. The material of the garment is then cut away under the embroidery, leaving a small seam, which is rolled and whipped to the embroidery as shown in Illustration 307.

A ROLLED HEM may be used as a dainty finish in joining trimming of any kind to a garment of sheer wash material. Hold the wrong side of the material toward you, and, after trimming off all ravelings, begin at the right end and roll the edge toward you tightly between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, keeping the edge rolled for about one and a half inches ahead of the sewing. (Ill. 307.)