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The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0004.png The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0005.pngIlls 4 & 5 Mesuring a Women's Bust Wasit Hip and Arm pattern makes allowance in the size of the waist or dress underneath; underwear patterns make the proper provision in size to allow for the fact that they are worn under a waist or dress.

A thirty-six inch bust pattern fits a figure which measures thirty-six inches in the bust. The pattern itself does not necessarily measure thirty-six inches. The proper amount of fulness is allowed in a blouse to give it the right softness on the figure. In a waist the right amount of size is allowed to give the correct style effect. A thirty-six inch bust soft blouse will be larger than a thirty-six inch bust close-fitted basque but both of them will fit correctly a woman who measures thirty-six inches at the bust.

In buying a pattern you can not rely on the size that you buy in ready-made clothes. With some manufacturers sizes run large and with others they run small, and do not furnish you a reliable guide in buying a pattern. Be measured.

The bust measure should be taken over the fullest part of the bust close up under the arms and straight across the back, with the tape-measure drawn easily but not snug. (Ills. 4 and 5.)

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0006.pngIll. 6. The Underarm Measure is Taken from One Inch Below the Armpit to the Length the Dress is to be Worn

The waist measure should be taken at your normal waist-line with the tape-measure held snug but not tight.(Ills. 4 and 5.)

Skirt patterns, drawers and pettcoats should be bought by the hip measure taken seven inches below the normal waistline for women, and around the fullest part of the hip for misses and small women. The tape should be easy and not snug. (Ills. 4 and .5.)

The sleeve pattern should be bought by the arm measure taken easily around the arm just below the armhole. (Ill. 4.)

At the top of every pattern you will find instructions as to how to buy that particular pattern that is, whether it should be bought by the bust or hip measure, etc. Follow these instructions in buying your pattern. Skirt patterns should be bought by the hip measure. (Ills. 4 and 5.) If the waist is small in proportion to the hips, it is an easy matter to take in the skirt a little at the top. If the pattern is small for you at the waist—and this will happen only in rare cases— a slight allowance can be made for the necessary waist size when you cut out your material.

A skirt pattern should never be ordered with a hip measure smaller than that of the figure to be fitted. If a plaited skirt is too large or too small at the waist, the plaits should be made either deeper or shallower to fit the belt.

If the skirt is gathered at the top, the gathers simply need to be drawn a little closer or let out as much as