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The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0349.pngIll. 349. Woven Darn helps to make the darned place less conspicuous. The lengthwise threads are run in first. Starting well in from the edge of the hole at one side, take up a few small stitches, cross over to the opposite side and again run a few stitches into the edge. Keep the threads taut, but not tight enough to pull. Returning, leave a tiny loop at the turning-point, to allow for shrinkage of the darning threads. Continue back and forth till the hole has been covered. Now begin the crosswise threads in the same way; darn over and under the lengthwise stitches, alternating with each return thread. (Ill. 349.) The frayed edges are caught in the weave as they happen to come, and are firmly secured between the latticed threads. (Ill. 349.)

STOCKINGS are darned on the right side to keep a smooth surface next the foot. A darning-egg or ball, held in the left hand, is slipped under the hole, with the stocking stretched smoothly, but not tightly, over it. The darning is done with the right hand. In a woven darn the darning threads in a stocking usually run up and down with the rib, and then across, but when the hole is at the knee or heel, where greater elasticity is desired, the threads are run across diagonally.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0350.pngIll. 350. Picking up a Dropped Stitch A BROKEN STITCH or two in a stocking can be easily remedied if attended to at once. With a silk thread, pick up the broken stitches and draw the edges together, and by a web-like weaving close the hole.

A DROPPED STITCH is more easily remedied by the use of a crochet-hook than by darning. Slip a fine crochet-hook through the little loop at the lower end of the hole; catch up the first thread and pull it through the loop. Continue until every dropped thread has been caught, then securely fasten the last loop at the end with a few sewing stitches. Illustration 350 shows the position of the crochet-hook picking up dropped stitches.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0351.pngIll. 351. Setting a Piece in a Stocking with the Ball Stitch TO SET IN A PIECE WITH THE BALL STITCH is a way of extending the usefulness of the stocking when the hole is too large to be neatly darned. For this purpose keep on hand the leg portions of stockings of which the feet have been worn out.

Baste the part to be mended over a piece of paper and trim off the ragged edge. Cut a piece from a stocking-leg, matching it in color and texture, with the ribs running like those in the stocking, and conforming in shape to the hole, but a trifle smaller.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0352.pngIll. 352. An Underlaid Piece Darned In Baste this piece into position on the paper and join the two edges, the needle passing in close stitches, alternating, over one edge and under the opposite, until the piece has been securely and neatly worked into position. (Ill. 351.) The stitch in this method will be seen to form a kind of lacing, and is called the "ball-stitch". It must be done evenly and closely, but not tightly enough to raise the edges. (Ill. 351.)

AN UNDERLAID PIECE DARNED IN is a better method of closing a hole when the stocking or garment is very loosely woven