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CHAPTER 31

REMODLLING

Materials—Dyeing—Cleaning—Remodeling Waists—Skirts—Coats—Suits—Children's Clothes—Boys' Clothes

AT THE beginning of every season when you are planning your clothes, look over, your wardrobe and decide what you have that is worth remaking and will fill some definite place in your outfit. Do not make over any clothes simply because you have them. If you are not going to need them for the present brush them thoroughly and put them away carefully until you want them.

Things that are genuinely worn out should be thrown away or given to the Salvation Army. Do not try to make them over for they are not worth the time and effort.

MATERIALS—Wool materials that are too shabby to be made over can often be used for interlining Winter coats and jackets.

Wool materials and some silks that are shabby on the outside but comparatively fresh on the inside can be turned if the wrong side is nice looking. It may not be exactly like the right side but if it is presentable it can be used. Satin, plush, velvet and silks that have a design on one side only can not be turned for the wrong side is not wearable. Plush and velvet can be steamed to freshen them, remove the wrinkles and raise the nap. Silks and satins can be steamed to remove bad wrinkles. (Chapter 6, page 32.)

Small pieces of material can often be combined to make hats for children, or if suitable used for collar and cuff facings.

When combinations of materials are in fashion remaking is a simple matter. Wool materials can often be combined with satin, taffeta, foulard, or with plaid, stripe or check silk or wool materials. Silks, satins, plushes and velvets can be used with Georgette crêpe, chiffon, silk voile, lace, or tulle. Plush and velvet can also be combined with silk and satin. Gingham can be used with chambray, and the heavy cotton and linen materials with batiste, handkerchief linen, etc. In Summer materials one can usually combine white with a color, or a plain color with plaid, clieck, stripe or figured material. If one feels inclined to take a little trouble one can completely disguise a last year's suit or dress by changing it to another color.

DYEING is a very simple thing, but there are certain hard and fast rules in regard to it that must not be disregarded. In the first place you can not dye a silk or wool material with a dye intended for cotton and linen. Neither can you dye cotton and linen with a silk and wool dye. In the second place, you can't change dark colors into lighter ones. In the third place, the material must be prepared carefully for tlie dyeing. If there are any grease spots or stains they should be removed as thoroughly as possible. (Chapter 34.)

Afterward the material should be washed for two reasons. The first is, that if the material is put into the dye soiled, the dirt will mingle with the dye and the result wiil be muddy instead of bright and clear. The second is that as much of the old dye should be taken out or "discharged," as it is called, as possible. Otherwise it will be impossible to predict how the mixture of the two dyes will turn out.

Cottons and silks can be washed in soap and boiling water, but it is not safe to use soap to any great extent on wool materials, as it softens the wool. Boil the materials about half an hour, changing the water as it becomes discolored. Keep up the washing until the water remains clear — a sure sign that all the dye has been discharged that is likely to do any harm.

It is best to dye the material while it is still wet from the washing as it absorbs the

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