Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/169

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165
BOYS' AND MEN'S CLOTHES

THE LINING—The coat is now ready for the lining. Place the coat on the table with the shoulder seams open and baste the lining back to the inside of the coat with the underarm edges along the underarm seams.

Baste the lining front to the inside of the coat. Turn under the underarm edges and baste them over the back. Turn under the front edge and baste it over the facing, allowing a little ease in width. Turn under the bottom of the lining and place it one-half an inch from the bottom of the coat, basting the lining to position one-half an inch from the edge. After the lining has been basted in position stitch the shoulder seams of the coat and press the seams open. (Chapter 32.) Turn to the outside of the coat and baste the shoulder seams to the canvas.

THE COLLAR—The under section of the collar for a coat should be of under-oollar cloth which can be purchased at any tailors' trimmings store, and comes in gray, brown, blue and black at about twelve or fifteen cents a collar. In purchasing this cloth any store of this kind has a form for a notched collar which they lay on the material and cut just the amount required for the collar. This piece of material must be sponged. (Chapter 6.)

Cut the under collar like the pattern. Join the back edges and press the seam open. After pressing, trim off the edges of the under collar three-eighths of an inch. Baste a piece of canvas (cut bias) over the collar and baste along the crease roll. The stand of the collar, which is the part near the neck up as far as the crease roll, should be held together with rows of machine stitching, making the rows one-eighth of an inch apart. (Chapter 12, page 59.) The turnover part of the collar is held together by padding stitches (Chapter 12, page 59), using the same method as in making the lapel. Press the collar into shape, stretching the bottom of the stand from three-eighths to one-half an inch and the outer edge about one-quarter of an inch.

Fold the collar along the crease roll, canvas side up. and press it into shape. Trim off the edges of the canvas all around to within one-eighth of an inch inside of the edges of the under collar. The collar can now be basted to the coat. Baste the neck edge of the collar to the neck edge of the coat three-eighths of an inch from the edge and overhand the collar in place with fine overhand stitches. (Chapter 16, page 82.) Then turn to the inside and catch-stitch the neck edge of the coat to the collar. The upper end of the tape along the crease roll of the lapel which extends over the neck edge should be sewed to the collar inside the crease roll. This presents the roll line at the neck from stretching.

The top of the facing should be turned in and slip-stitched along the top of the lapel and along the outline at the bottom of the collar.

The over-collar should now be basted over the collar along the crease roll and about one-half inch from the outer edge, making sure that there is plenty of size in the over collar when the collar is rolled back. Turn under the edges of the over collar except the neck edges between the shoulder seams even with the edges of the under collar and baste. Fell the outer edges of the under collar to the collar. Slip-stitch the lower edge of the collar along the top of the facing. Baste the shoulder edge of the lining back to the seam of the coat. Turn under the shoulder edge of the lining front and baste it over the lining back. Turn under the neck edge and baste it over the collar edge.

The buttonholes are made with eyelets. (Chapter 24, page 113.)

POCKETS—Directions for making different types of pockets used on boys' and mens' clothes are given in Chapter 22.

BATHROBES, HOUSE JACKETS. UNDERGARMENTS OF ALL KINDS, SLEEPING GARMENTS, ETC.—In making any of these garments follow the Deltor or Illustrated Instructions given with the pattern. Each of these types of garments should be finished according to the style and the purpose for which it is to be used. In all these garments for boys and men it is important that every detail of the work be done neatly and accurately and according to the directions given with the pattern.