|Ill. 49. If the figure is
|Ill. 50. The Lining Will|
Require More Size Across
try it on again and if it fits perfectly take it off and rip it apart. The edges of the side-front seams will be jagged where the lining was lapped. Even them off following the original seam line.
Correct your paper pattern, slashing the front and side front, lap the edges as much as in the lining, and paste the edges together.
Alterations for an unusually large or small bust may be made on a French lining; a lining with one or two darts, or a lining with a straight or curved front edge.
ALTERING A PATTERN FOR A ROUND-SHOULDERED FIGURE.
The lining must be made up in cheap material, fitted to the figure and the alterations transferred to the paper pattern itself. Place a strip of the lining material about 4 inches wide across your shoulders from one arm to the other. Then put on the trial lining which will run in wrinkles from the underarm to the side-back seams and stand out across the back (Ill. 49) because of the round shoulders.
Have some one cut the lining across the shoulders to the side-back seams (Ill. 50) and from the scrams to within ⅜ of an inch of the underarm seam. The lining will spread apart and drop to the right place on your figure. (Ill. 50.)
|Ill. 51. If a Woman Stands
|Ill. 52. The Remedy|
Have some one pin the cut edges of the lining to the piece beneath it. Baste the pieces underneath and try it on again. If it sets satisfactorily, cut it apart and use the pieces in correcting your tissue pattern. Slash the pattern just where you slashed the lining, separate the pieces the same distance and place the tissue-paper underneath the slash.
If you are only a little round-shouldered, you will not require as great a separation.
For a very bad case of round shoulders a second cut should be made across the trial lining about one-third the distance between the neck and first slash. Slash across the center-back and side-back portions nearly to the armhole edge. Separate the slashed pieces as much as the figure requires, generally ⅛ to ½ inch.
In cutting out the side back preserve an even curve along the back edge. The underarm gore seldom needs any change.
ALTERING A PATTERN FOR AN OVER-ERECT FIGURE. On an over-erect figure the lining will wrinkle across the shoulders. (Ill. 51.) Make up the lining in cheap muslin and put it on correctly. Have some one slash it across the center-back portion and down to side back to within ⅜ of an inch of the underarm seam. (Ill. 52.) The edges of the slash should be lapped and pinned to remove the fulness in the lining. Don't lap the edges too much or the shoulders will pull back.
Baste the slash, try the lining on and then rip it apart. Where it has been lapped the seam edges will be uneven. Trim them off. Alter your paper pattern, using the trial lining as a guide, slashing it and lapping and basting the edges.