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THE NEW DRESSMAKER

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0057.pngIll. 57. Increasing Waist Size of a Circular Skirt Pattern Cut out the muslin in the new outline, baste it to the inside belt and try it on to be sure that it drops in a straight line and doesn't poke out or swing at the front.

If the muslin skirt falls in good lines cut a paper pattern with the corrected lines at the top and the right size at the waistline, using the original pattern to cut from. Don't cut from the muslin. Or you can cut directly from the original making the same allowance on your good material that you made in cutting the muslin.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0058.pngIll. 58. Altering a Circular Skirt Pattern to Fit Prominent Hips ALTERING A CIRCULAR SKIRT PATTERN FOR A FIGURE WITH PROMINENT HIPS. Mark the hipline on the pattern seven inches below the normal waistline. At the hipline on the back edge of the pattern take up a dart-shaped plait ½ inch deep and taper it into nothing at a point just over the fullest part of the hip. (Ill. 58.) Slash the pattern from the upper edge to the hipline to make the pattern lie flat. (Ill. 58.) This will increase the size of the waist. The extra fulness can either be eased into the belt or taken up in a small dart when making the skirt. In cutting the skirt fill in the narrow edge above the plait, keeping the back edge straight. (Ill. 58.)

ALTERING A YOKE PATTERN. If your waist is large or small in proportion to your hips it will be necessary to alter the waist size of a circular yoke pattern. The alteration is very simple.

If the waist size is too small for you slash the yoke pattern from the upper edge to the hipline, making the slashes in three places. (Ill. 59.) In opening the yoke pattern on your material spread the upper edge until it is the right size for you. (Ill. 59.)

If the waistline is too large for you, make three dart-shaped plaits on the yoke pattern, laying the plaits on the upper edge and letting them taper to nothing at the hipline. (Ill. 60.) The depth of the plaits depends on the amount of alteration required.

ALTERING A DRAWERS PATTERN FOR A FIGURE WITH A LARGE ABDOMEN. If a woman has a large abdomen and cuts her drawers exactly by the pattern, her The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0059.pngIll. 59. Increasing the Waist Size of the Yoke Pattern The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0060.pngIll. 60. Decreasing the Waist Size of the Yoke Pattern