Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/61

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57
SAILOR OR NAVAL SUITS

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0096.jpgIll. 96. The Neckerchief Tied The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0097.jpgIll. 97. Detail of Tying Knot THE NECKERCHIEF OR TIE worn with the blouse is a square of black silk tied in a square knot, leaving ends from four to six inches long. It is folded diagonally and then rolled up, with the two overlapping corners folded into the material and held together by an elastic, as shown in Illustration 96, while the other corners are tied at the lower end of the collar in a square knot with a corner extending from each side. (Ill. 97.)

THE SKIRT. If front openings in the skirt are desired, both edges of the front gore are underfaced to the depth of a placket opening, with a straight strip of material about one and one-half inches wide. The front edge of each side gore should have an underlap to the same depth, about one inch and a half wide when finished.

Join the gores together with stitched felled seams, continuing the stitching along the opening. If the skirt is to be plaited, the plaits will give sufficient material for the underlap. (Chapter 21, page 102.)

For a back lacing, the back plait is stitched separately from the skirt and the fold edges worked with six or eight eyelets (Chapter 24, page 115) and laced with black silk lacing or silk tape. (Ill. 99.)

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0098.jpgIll. 98. Front Placket of Skirt The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0099.jpgIll. 99. Regulation Naval Lacing The upper edge of the front gore is finished with a straight belt two inches wide. A continuous belt of the same width is attached to the side and back gores of the skirt. The belts are cut single and lined, with an interlining added if it is necessary. Three buttonholes are made at each side of the front gore, two on the skirt part and one on the belt. (Ill. 98.)

The sailor blouse may be used with a boy's suit. Instructions for making trousers will be found in Chapter 36.