Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/65

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61
COATS AND CAPES

pattern of the coat as a guide, letting it extend an inch or two below the waistline. (Ills. 103 and 104.) Slash the interlining at intervals along the bottom so that it will not bind the coat. Do not put the interlining together with ordinary seams, but tack it inside the coat, letting one seam edge of the interlining overlap the one next to it.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0105.pngIll. 105. The Collar Facing CUT FACINGS for the collar and fronts from the coat pattern following the instructions in the Deltor or Illustrated Instructions. The front facings must be cut to the shape of the front after the edges have been altered and taped. Lay the cloth on the fronts and over the lapel corners; pin it carefully in place, holding the front and lapel in to their proper shape; then cut it to the required width. It need extend only about three inches inside of the line that marks the center of the front. The collar facing, if of cloth, must be cut on the width or crosswise of the material and must not have a seam in the center of the back.

Fit the collar facing to the canvas collar and join it to the front facings, matching the notches on the collar and the front facings. Press the seams open and baste to the canvas collar and to the front of the coat, turning in the edges of the facing. (Ill. 105.)

COLLAR FACINGS of velvet are sometimes used, but instead of being applied directly over the interlining the edges of the velvet are turned under and catch-stitched to the under side of the cloth collar. If a velvet collar facing is used it should be made of a seamless bias strip of velvet. One-eighth of a yard of velvet cut on the bias is usually enough for a collar facing. All pressing and shaping of the collar must be done before putting on the velvet facing.

The shawl-collar facing is sometimes cut in one with the front facing. The collar proper is out and joined as just described, stitched to the body of the coat and pressed. The two facing sections are joined at the back and the seam pressed open. The facing is pinned in position. The outer edge of the facing is turned in even with the fold edge of the coat and basted. Baste the free edges of the facing in place, being careful to allow sufficient ease for the roll.

Fell the edges to position on the under side unless the neck is sometimes worn high in which case the felling stitches would show through. If the coat is to be worn high slip-stitch the edges.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0106.pngIll. 106. The Collar Which is Not Tailored THE COAT COLLAR WHICH IS NOT TAILORED. Cut the interlining like the pattern. The Deltor or Illustrated Instructions will tell you what kind of interlining is to be used. Trim off the seam allowance on the edges of the interlining which are not to be joined to the neck. Baste the interlining to the upper section of the collar. Turn the outer edge and ends of the collar over on the interlining and catch-stitch them. (Ill. 106). Turn under the edges of the under section of the collar one-eighth of an inch more than you turned under the edges of the upper section and baste to the upper section one-eighth inch from the edges. (Ill. 106). Catch the under section to the interlining about three-quarters of an inch in from the outer edges and also at the line where the collar rolls over. Fell the edges to position. (Ill. 106). Baste the collar flatly inside the neck edge of the coat and fell the coat to the collar.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0107.pngIll. 107. The Interlining in the Sleeve Give the coat a careful pressing. (Chapter 32, page 154.)

THE SLEEVES. Baste the seams of the sleeves and try them on. If they need any alteration in size around the arm, make it at the seam