Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/67

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COATS AND CAPES

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0110.pngIll. 110. The Sleeve Interlining the upper edge and three inches above the wrist edge. (Ill. 110.) The lining is slipped inside the sleeve and hemmed down at the hand and on the small opening at the back of the wrist if there is an opening allowed in the sleeve pattern. It is then drawn up in place and basted through the cloth of the sleeve about five inches from the top. Draw up the sleeve lining, turn in the raw edge, and baste it to the coat lining all around the arm-hole and fell it in place.

THE HALF-LINED COAT

THE HALF-LINED COAT. Top coats, storm coats, motor coats, etc., should only be lined to about twenty-five or twenty-six inches from the neck. (Ill. 111.) You need a lining in the upper part to cover the interlining and to make the coat slip on and off easily. There is no real need for a lining in the lower part and it wears out so quickly, from rubbing against your skirt, that it is really better not to use it.

THE SEAM EDGES. When a coat is lined to the waist only, the seam edges in the lower part of the coat must be finished neatly. (Chapter 17.) Heavy materials like wool, velvet and army cloth are really self-finished, for they are so closely woven that they will not fray and can be left raw quite satisfactorily.

Tweed, cheviot, mixtures, etc., will fray and must be bound. The seams should be bound with ribbon seam-binding, the color of the coat. Seam-binding comes in different widths and you can get it wide enough for even a heavy coating. Put the seam-binding on by hand with an easy running stitch, sewing it neatly and evenly. (Ill. 154, page 88.)

The seam-binding should run up well above the line of the lower edge of the lining. The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0111.pngIll. 111. The Half-Lined Coat

AN UNLINED COAT

An unlined coat needs interlining to prevent its breaking on the figure. The interlining for the front of the coat should be cut and put in according to the Deltor or Illustrated Instructions. The interlining in the front of the coat should be covered with a facing of the coat material. The part of the interlining left exposed back of the facing should be covered neatly with a lining.

In cloth or linen the raw edges of the interlining and facing of the side fronts should be bound together. In silk they may both be turned under three-eighths of an inch, facing each other, and stitched. In either case, these edges should be left loose from the coat; they should lie against it, but