Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/72

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CHAPTER 14

MAKING AND FINISHING UNDERGARMENTS

Patterns—Materials—Cutting—Putting the Garment Together—Seams—Trimmings

UNDERWEAR is the easiest type of sewing. There is practically no fitting to be done and the construction is of the simplest possible kind. It is a very good idea, therefore, for a beginner to start with an underwear garment before she undertakes a blouse or dress.

PATTERNS—Buy your pattern by the measures given on the pattern envelope. No other measure need be considered in purchasing these patterns. It is very important that these measures be correct. The right way to take your measures and instructions for buying patterns are given in Chapter 2, pages 10–12.

Before cutting your material read the instructions in the Deltor or pattern envelope for altering the length of the pattern if necessary. If you are of average size and height it is probable that no change will be needed, but if you are shorter or taller than the average it is advisable to adjust the length of the pattern before cutting your material.

To make any alteration that is necessary read Chapter 3, pages 19–23. You should also read Chapter 2 on "Butterick Patterns."

MATERIALS. The materials most used for nightgowns, camisoles, corset-covers, petticoats, drawers and combinations are batiste, nainsook, long-cloth and cross-bar. These are practical materials, and the plain or flowered batistes, cross-bars and nain-sooks are also very dainty. Many women like cotton crêpe for it is easy to launder, and it is used in the plain or flowered crêpes or the crêpes with bird designs. Muslin and cambric are used for garments that are to have hard wear. The French use cotton voile in dainty colors. For fine underwear the best materials are handkerchief linen, crêpe de Chine, wash silk and wash satin, silk mull, especially with a gauze stripe, silk muslin, and the occasional net and Georgette crêpe for camisoles and petticoats. The Oriental silks, both the Chinese and Japanese, are used for a good many things, especially for pajamas, while outing flannel is used for both pajamas and nightgowns. Pajamas are also made of any of the silk or cotton materials mentioned.

Italian silks and silk jersey are nice for knickers, which are also made of sateen, satin, China silk and crêpe de Chine when they are worn under dresses in place of petticoats. These knickers are more comfortable than a petticoat under a narrow skirt, and may be worn under any skirt of a good weight wool material or under any silk or satin skirt which has a drop skirt. For this purpose it is better to make them in a longer length. Dark colors are practical, especially for the street, but flesh color and white are very dainty. If they are used instead of drawers they should be made in a shorter length, and in either the silk or cotton materials they should be white or flesh-color.

Princess slips are made of crêpe de Chine, Georgette, wash satin, Japanese silk, sateen, batiste, cotton voile and silk mull.

Bloomers for gymnasium suits are made of serge, khaki, sateen, cotton poplin and brilliantine in dark colors.

CUTTING. Lay the pattern on the material, following the layout for your size, view and width of material given in the Deltor or following the cutting instructions given on the pattern envelope. Mark the notches with two or three stitches taken in basting cotton, or clip them. In the latter case only cut them deep enough so that you can see them easily. Mark all the working perforations with tailors' tacks. (Chapter 16, page 85.)

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