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CHAPTER 18

HEMS

Hems—Napery or Damask Hem—French Hems—Square Corners—Mitered Corners—Circular Hem—Plain Hem

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0167.pngIll. 167. Hem A Hem is a finish for the edges of garments, household linens, etc. It is made by turning the edge over twice. (Ill. 167.) The first turning should be narrow and must of course be perfectly even. The depth of the second turning depends on where the hem is used and the effect you want to give. Mark the depth of the second turning on the material with pins, using as a marker a card notched the desired depth of the hem. Fold the material on the line with the pins and if the hem is wide baste it at both the top and bottom.

A NAPERY OR DAMASK HEM is used on napkins and table-cloths. Turn under the edge of the material twice for a narrow hem. Fold the hem back on the right side, crease the material along the first fold, and overhand the fold and crease together. The needle is inserted straight, as shown in Illustration 168. Open and flatten stitches with the thumb-nail. The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0168.pngIll. 168. Napery or Damsk Hem If a square is used, turn the opposite side in the same manner. Hem the sides before folding back on the right side. No basting is needed for this hem. Take small stitches so that the work will look well when the hem is turned down. Directions for hemstitching will be found on page 120.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0169.pngIll. 169. Folding for Square Corners SQUARE CORNERS are used in hemming squares or oblongs. Turn under the hem on one edge and then turn under the hem on the edge at right angles with the first. Crease the line where the fold of the second hem crosses the first hem. Open both hems and cut away the first hem to within a seam's width of the crease and the fold of the hem. (Ill. 169.) Turn under the hems again and hem the overlapping edges of the second hem to the under side of the first hem (Ill. 170) but not through to the right side. Finish all square corners in this way.

MITERED CORNERS are made by joining two bias edges to form an angle. Turn the edges as for hems, and crease. Open the material, fold the corner toward the center, and crease where the lines cross. Cut the corner off, allowing

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