Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/97

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93
HEMS

A CIRCULAR HEM is often used on a skirt or garment that is not straight at the lower edge.

If the material is soft in texture, the top of the hem is simply turned under and a gathering-thread run in close to the turning. (Ill. 175.) Draw the gathering-thread till the top of the hem is the same size as the part to which it is to be sewed. (Ill. 175.) Blind-stitch it or machine-stitch it to the garment.

The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0175.pngIll. 175. A Circular Hem with the Edge Turned Under If the material of the garment is of heavy weight the upper edge should be gathered without turning it under (Ill. 176) and the raw edge should be covered with a strip of seam-binding. (Ill. 176.) The lower edge of this seam-binding should be sewed to the hem but not to the garment.

Before sewing the top of the hem in place slip a piece of muslin cut the shape of the bottom of the garment under the hem and press the hem flat, shrinking out as much of the fulness as possible. The piece of muslin will prevent the fulness in the hem from making marks on the garment during the pressing. The New Dressmaker, 1921, Ill. No. 0176.pngIll. 176. Covering the Raw Edge of a Circular Hem with Seam Binding The piece of muslin need not be the full width or size of the garment or hem. It can be a comparatively short piece and can be moved as the pressing is done.

After the hem has been pressed in this manner, hem the upper edge of the seam binding to the garment with invisible stitches.

A HEM FOR A SLIGHTLY GORED OR STRAIGHT SKIRT. The hem edge is turned under in the usual way. If an invisible sewing is desired, the turned-under edge of the hem is stitched close to the turning and then blind-stitched neatly and carefully to the garment.