embroidered stuff. The border of the cap and the colour of the clothing was the same as for the Shoku-kwan.
(XXV. 39.) The third was called Shi-kwan.[1] Of this there were two grades, the greater and the lesser. It was made of purple material, with a border of woven stuff. The colour of the clothing was light purple.
The fourth was called Kin-kwan.[2] Of this there were two grades, the greater and the lesser. The greater Kin-kwan was made of Dai-haku-sen[3] brocade, and had the cap-border of woven stuff: the lesser Kin-kwan was made of Shō-haku-sen brocade, and had the cap-border of Dai-haku-sen brocade. The colour of the clothing was in both cases true dark red.
The fifth was called Sei-kwan,[4] and was made of blue silk. Of this there were two grades, the greater and the lesser. The greater Sei-kwan had a border of Dai-haku-sen brocade. The colour of the clothing was in both cases deep violet.
The sixth was called Kok-kwan,[5] and was made of black silk. Of this there were two grades, the greater and the lesser. The greater Kok-kwan had a border of wheel-pattern brocade. The lesser Kok-kwan had a border of diamond-pattern brocade. The colour of the clothing was in both cases green.[6]
The seventh was called Kembu[7] [the initial (or lowest) rank. It was also called Risshin].[8] It was made of black silk and had a border of dark violet.
In addition to the above there were Tō-kwan,[9] made of black silk. These caps had varnished gauze stretched behind.
- ↑ Purple-cap.
- ↑ Brocade-cap.
- ↑ Nothing more is known of this than that Hakusen seems to have been the name of a place.
- ↑ Blue cap. Neither the Chinese nor Japanese in ordinary speech or writing think it worth while to distinguish between green and blue. 靑, the Chinese character used here stands for both colours, and the corresponding Japanese word awoki may be either green or blue. It is also used of a pale complexion, and, strange to say, of a black horse. It does not follow that these nations cannot distinguish between green and blue. I have seen a dyer's sample book which contained numerous shades of both, each with an appropriate name.
- ↑ Black-cap.
- ↑ Especially grass-green.
- ↑ Kembu means "to establish valour."
- ↑ Risshin means advancement.
- ↑ Stirrup-caps, so called no doubt from their shape. The Japanese name is tsubo-kammuri, i.e. jar-caps.
