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NOTES AND QUERIES. [12 s. vn. SEPT. 4, 1020;
We were extremely struck at the Dutch neat-
ness apparent in the pavement and whole
outsides of the houses in this little town. After
a dish of tea in our inn, we waited on Mynheer
Commipary, a brisk chattering fellow, who made
us drink a bottle of bad claret with him (not
without paying, however) while he sent for
carriages. We two, with a French and Dutch
gentleman, got an old-fashioned clumsy coach
for ourselves and a waggon for our baggage, and
proceeded for the Brill.
Our road lay through low marshy land, which in most other countries would have been quite neglected, but here was highly cultivated, pro- ducing corn, flax, madder, potatoes, &c. The farm houses were neat and substantial. There were many aquatic birds in the fields, very tame, among which we were particularly struck with the stork. At half-past eight we arrived at the Brill, the gates of which were shut, so that we were obliged to give in our names and pay a trifle for admission. We crossed a fine noble bridge at the entrance.
July 10. I rose at six, impatient to view the new world I was got into. On going out, I found all the servant girls busy in mopping and scrubbing before their doors. They were drest in round caps coming low on the forehead, ear- rings, short jackets, a sort of bell-hoops and slippers. Most had a large black patch on one or both temples, which we were told was a remedy for the tooth-ache. The morning was mizzling, which did not prevent me from walking through some of the streets under the continued rows of trees. After breakfast it cleared up, and we walked to the sides of the Maes, where we were ferried over to a low island which lies in the middle of the river. Here we got a waggon for ourselves and baggage. It had swinging seats at the forepart on which we were placed, and our baggage was piled behind ; and we drove away merrily about three miles, when we had crossed the island, and came to another ferry. This landed us on the continent at Maesland Sluys, which is a busy populous town, with a small port full of vessels. Upon the quay were great quantities of fine salt fish, in barrels. It was market day, and the shops and stalls were dressed cut in all the pride of Dufcch brilliance and finery We just walked through the town, and embarked in a treck-schuyt on the great Delft canal. The weather was clear and hot. We rode on the roof of the boat, and with great pleasure viewed all the surrounding objects. Many towns and villages were in sight on both sides ; and we passed through rich meadows, full of cattle. The canal is very broad and straight, but we met with few vessels. About two we arrived at Delft. This is a very pleasing town, with canals and rows of trees in most of the streets, and many very good houses. The Square, with the town-house on one side, and new church on the other has an air of magnificence. In two of the churches we viewed the tombs of some of the greatest men in modern history. These were Admirals Tromp and Peter Hein, Grotius, and William I. Pr. of Orange. The noble mauso- leum erected for the Orange family, with the statue of William, the great asserter of liberty, excited in me sentiments of the profoundest veneration.
The Dutch churches which I saw are large*
lofty buildings, with no other ornaments than a
number of scutcheons painted with the arms of
families buried there, and hung upon the pillars.
There are no pews, but a vast number of chairs
and benches.
Here we parted with our two companions, and set off after four in the Haue boat. The voyage was most amusing and striking, the banks of the canal being one continued range of villas, gardens,, pleasure-houses, windmills, rows of trees, &c.. Numerous vessels were continually passing and repassing. In a short tune we reached the Hague. Here we took up our quarters at the- Marechal de Turenne, a French hotel, very elegant and spacious. After tea we made a tour of the best part of the town under the conduct of the French Valet de place.
The union of the Dutch neatness with thfr magnificence of a court, in this place, is extremely striking. It is an assemblage of fine streets and squares, with houses worthy of the title of palaces in a variety of beautiful architecture, exceeding 1 much, as I thought, the best parts of London. Some of the older squares in London, as Grosvenor, Hanover, &c., if they were thrown into a continued group, with their connecting streets, would give the best idea of it. But more of the buildings are of stone, and in a grander style ; and the fine rows of trees are a great ornament to thenu The side pavement, however, is neither so com- modious nor beautiful as in London.
There seemed to be little hurry and bustle in the streets, and few marks of opulence and gayety: but many families were gone to their country habitations. The few carriages we saw were mostly in the old heavy style here and in the other parts of Holland. Some light English carriages,, indeed, were now and then to be seen.
July 11. (Sunday). M. H. A. and myself walked before breakfast to Scheveling. The road is a perfectly straight avenue of several rows of trees for a mile and a half striking but rather tiresome. Scheveling is a large fishing village on the open beach. Its neatness could not prevent it from smelling abominably of fish. The shore is composed of whole and broken shells, protected by a range of sand-hills, held together by the star-grass. An uniform line of 60 fishing barks,, all nearly alike and placed at equal distances, lay before the place. On our return we met with several open carriages full of men and women- going for a Sunday's ramble, some singing and noisy, unlike our idea of Dutch gravity.
After breakfast we walked to the parade, where some horse and foot guards were marching round and round to fine music. The prince of Orange was here, holding a kind of levee. He is a heavy looking ill-made man ; but seemed affable and good-tempered. We followed him on his walk to the House in the Wood, about a mile from the town ; and were diverted with the odd motley group which composed his suite. There were three or four officers, a running footman, about half a dozen low people who followed close at his heels, among whom was one sedately smoking his pipe, and perfuming the whole company ; a shabby fellow followed, whistling in imitation of a nightingale ; and we four composed the rear. The prince walked ia his boots, bareheaded ; and occasionally stopped-
