CONTENTS.
xxv
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| CHAPTER XXVIII. | |
| Escape of Gomez Sancliez—Continue to bring in the wounded—Lima lady attends the sick—The priest missing—"Ah! little mother, am I dying?"—Fort of Santa Catalina not surrendered—Narrow escape of my piano—A charming young girl killed—The Monteneros—Another battle probable—Fried potatoes of the 'Barrière de Clichy'—Things taking an alarming turn—The fort still holds out—The dead and wounded—Sad effects of civil war—Santa Catalina surrendered—What will become of us?—Details of flight of Gomez Sanchez—Fears realized as to my concerts—Garden of Otaiza—The Peruvian Mabille—How the difliculty was overcome—Composition on 'Le Ballo in Maschera'—Eve of war with Spain—My concerts finished—My success—The superb decoration presented to me—Sea baths at Chorillos—Civil war in Spain—Raymondi, an Italian savant—The coca and its marvellous effects—How used—Embark for Islay, port of Arequipa—The desert and the Tambos—Arequipeños—Their indomitable character—City of Arequipa—Islay to Arequipa a herculean journey—The landing at Islay—Am known—The young children and Indian girl bathing— Arica—La Paz—Tacna—Trying to persuade me to go to Bolivia—One hundred and eighty leagues on mules, and no hotels—No danger—Convoys of silver—Honesty of the Indians—Troop of Spanish actors at Arica—Singularly tempted—Arica, its fortifications and church—A decree of Prados—The commandant-general—His campaigns in the interior—Arrival of Indians from Bolivia—The cholo of Peru—Soirée at X's—Society at Tacna—The only aristocracy among parvenues and republicans, that of wealth—What I find ridiculous—Pretty women and dancing—The mecapaquenâ, how danced—The wife of X | 429 |
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| CHAPTER XXIX. | |
| Descendants of the Incas—Prejudice against the Indians—The wife of X., a descendant from the Cacique Huascar—Her marvellous beauty when young—Bolivar—Compared with Washington—His character—His stay at Tacna—'The pearl of Tacna' and Bolivar—The romance—A tragical history—Pass the evening with a Swiss merchant—Charming evening—Invited to eat game taken on the Tacora—Second concert at Tacna—The stolen horse and the Indians of Bolivia—Tricks of robbers—False singing of the old Spanish priest—The accompaniment—The playing of the old Indian—No regard to the key in which the priest was singing—Plans changed by bombardment of Valparaiso—Bolivia open before me—Three hundred miles in the interior—Desert and Andes—What travellers over the Andes exposed to!—Caravan of French travellers—Crimes of Bolivia—An invitation—Character of the Indians—The port of Arica and the caravans— The President of Bolivia, Señor General Melgarejo—His character—A sort of tiger—Curious customs of the Indians of Tacna—Indian bride complains that her husband did not whip her!—Their humility and submission—The market and church—Preparing for Easter Sunday—'Tristos' a musical instrument—Tradition respecting its invention—Last concert at Valparaiso—Presentation by municipal council with golden crown and gold medal—Copiapo—The large, lean, shabby man—Dined with him at the French consul's—His death and burial—His history—Occupied distinguished rank in the French army—Our difficulties at the funeral—The corpse deposited—The custom | 444 |
