a fresh S.W. wind blowing, it proved but a bleak resting-place. Accordingly the horses were immediately sent down again to the Estancia de los Ingleses, while the party lost no time in completing the last 1000 feet of ascent. If the road was bad before, it was ten times worse now. Each one had to look out for himself, scrambling and jumping over sharply pointed blocks of slag of every conceivable size and shape, to the serious detriment of cuticle. At last, however, this gymnasium was cleared, as also some patches of hard snow, when the travellers found themselves at the foot of the cone, composed of ashes and scoriæ, which forms the true summit of Teneriffe. To climb this proved no easy job, its moveable surface being held so loosely together as to yield readily at each footstep; however, about half-way up, the pumice-gravel gave place to a more solid footing, and a little more patience and perseverance enabled the party to gain the top just before the sun rose. The daylight had been spreading upwards, and to the right and left, for some time previously to the advent of the great luminary, therefore every one was prepared for his appearance; but imagination fell far short of the reality, when the huge disc of a blood-red colour was observed to rise majestically from the ocean and assume the command of day. Turning round from the contemplation of this glorious scene, another scarcely less wonderful struck every one with astonishment; this was the shadow of the gigantic peak stretching away upwards of fifty miles, and partly eclipsing the isle of Gomera. This monster shadow, the largest in the world, was defined so clearly that one of the party waved his cap on the edge of the crater in the hope of seeing the action reflected, after the manner of the human figure on the summit of the Brocken, the loftiest of the Hartz mountains, but the closest scrutiny failed to detect any corresponding movement. It was a wonderful sight, standing on the highest pinnacle of the great peak, 12,200 feet above the sea, to look down upon the panorama of the eastern part of the island, bathed in the glow of the rising sun, while all to the westward, including the greater portion of the island of Gomera, was wrapped in the deepest gloom.
The summit of the peak is simply the edge of the wall, forming the crater, and is therefore very narrow, so much so, indeed, that only one person can stand on the extreme top at a time. The brim of the crater is not horizontal, like that of Fayal, but dips to the southward as much as 45°;. all action has long ceased, and now hardly a wreath of escaping smoke is perceptible, although the entire surface is caked with sulphur, and many fine crystals are lying about. A strong S.W. wind blowing keenly, with a temperature below freezing, stagnated the blood of all the party, so long used to the warmth of the tropics, and compelled them to seek shelter under the lee of the summit-blocks, where, in a short time, circulation was restored; rather too quickly, indeed, as was proved by the captain’s inexpressibles, the seat of which was completely burnt through. It appeared that all over the top, at less than two inches below the surface, the temperature was above boiling point, the bulb of a thermometer just placed in the ground caused the quicksilver to rise immediately to the top of the scale, and the tube would have been broken had it not been instantly removed. After this caution, every one, as may readily be imagined, moved about with extreme care, visions of boiled travellers rising vividly to the mind’s eye.
The clouds which the party passed through on the ascent quite dispersed as the sun arose, leaving hill and valley, cultivated ground and barren ridge very distinct, so much so, that some one declared he could see the “Fury” in Santa Cruz Roads—quite possible, with the aid of a good glass. The view was lovely and most extensive, the visible horizon being 140 miles distant, Gomera, Herro and Palma plainly visible to the south and west, while to the north and east only the summit of Gran Canaria could be seen rising through the masses of clouds which obscured the low lands; these clouds in several places rested on the bosom of the ocean, and looked exactly like floes of rugged ice in the Arctic Regions.
Having thoroughly enjoyed the glorious prospect on every side, the party now prepared for the grand ceremonial of the day: the champagne bottles were produced, and the popping of the corks proved that the cold had not impaired the vigour of the wine, which was drunk with the heartiest good wishes for the health, welfare, and long life of the Sovereign Lady of England; the cheers, as mentioned before, were not so lusty as could have been wished, owing to the difficulty of respiration at such a height. The natives, who had also ascended to the summit, were not forgotten, receiving each a bumper of champagne, which they drank, shouting La Reyna d’Inglaterra; and as soon as their cups were drained to the bottom, asked for more. Whether the enthusiasm of the English was catching, or whether they approved of the flavour of the wine, who shall say? Having collected a few specimens from the extreme top, consisting principally of crystals of sulphur, the descent was commenced, and effected with considerable expedition as far as the bottom of the cone, when the snow was once more crossed, and the lava field gained. Diverging to the right, ten minutes’ scramble brought the party to the mouth of the celebrated ice cave, into which every one descended by a neat wooden ladder. The cave was small, with three outlets, running apparently into the bowels of the earth; the bottom was covered with solid ice, so that it was impossible to ascertain the depth. From the roof many icicles depended, while some large conical masses of drift snow were piled up in a line with the entrance. The temperature was 33°, but the atmosphere felt much warmer, being completely sheltered from the wind. From this cave the Teneriffians obtain their summer supply of ice, which is said to be inexhaustible; most probably it is a frozen spring.
Starting from the ice cave, the party pushed on to Alta Vista, and in little more than an hour after leaving the summit reached the ruins of Professor Smythe’s Observatory. Some dried-up bushes grew in its vicinity, otherwise all was bleak and drear; but about 100 feet below a few peak violets were gathered, and every foot of descent gained the aspect of vegetation improved, while at the commencement of the Pumice Plains shrubs