usually followed by both Indians and by fur traders (and by Fremont in 1843) lead around the heads of both south and north forks of the Umatilla, but Mr. McLeod for some reason turned to the left, between those forks along ridges shown on forest reserve maps, to a steep and difficult descent into the canyon and the climb to Toll Gate by the Coyote Ridge trail. From the summit they turned westward through the timber, down grades, to a night camp on one of the sources of Pine Creek, which empties into the Walla Walla River.
During this early evening ride, at an elevation of nearly five thousand feet, the beautiful landscape of Walla Walla Valley, Columbia River and distant snow peaks of the Cascade Range burst into view. The grandeur of that view is still an inspiration. Residents of Walla Walla and Umatilla counties will be especially interested in following the travel route of Mrs. Whitman, because the names Toll Gate and Bingham Springs are familiar to them as popular summer resorts, and the topography easily recognized. For the better understanding of non-residents let it be clearly understood that the missionary party did not cross the Blue Mountains by the Oregon trail used by the pioneers and now substantially the state highway by Meacham. They did follow the trail, which, with distinct deviations, later became the wagon road between Walla Walla and the Wallowa countries, privately maintained by tolls collected at the summit; hence the name Toll Gate. The north fork of Umatilla River heads a few miles from Toll Gate and flows in a deep, narrow canyon, in the bottom of which, near its junction with the south fork, are located flowing springs of hot water. These have been developed into the resort named Bingham Springs.
Mrs. Whitman continues:
"30thIn consequence of the lengthy camp yesterday & failure of animals two of the company's men left four of theirs behind with packs also. This occasioned some anxiety lest the wolves would destroy their beaver. Today they send back for them & we remain here untill they return or make but a short move to find more grass. In following the course of the stream on which we encamped last night, found cherries in abundance, had time to stop to gather as we wished Indeed we
