were already there—a young French couple and two very intelligent Arab twin brothers from Rabat, who had had a university education and were training for a diplomatic career under Marshal Lyautey. With the conversation flowing easily, I learned much of interest about Arab life an d traditions. When dinner was to be served, we took our places on low cushions and watched the slaves, dressed as penitents in costumes girt with a rope, bring in a low, round table without a cloth and, as the first dish, an immense earthenware bowl full of roast chickens without dressing or garniture of any sort and not carved. As there were no knives and forks, I was quite bewildered and waited to see what my companions in misfortune would do. Madame Halmagrand, laughing at my troubled expression, reached out and pulled off with the thumb and two fingers of the right hand some bits of the breast and fat of the chicken. I followed her lead and then thought to bring my other hand into play to detach a drumstick and second joint, as I am more fond of the dark meat. But I was at once frowned upon by the other two ladies, after which I was informed in a whisper that one may eat only with the thumb and first two fingers of the right hand, which one must hold in the air during the whole dinner and lick well after each dish. Resigned to the exigent 'table manners' of my associates, I joined with them in the quest for dainty morsels and soon became quite adept.
"Then we were served mutton with almonds, saffron and marjoram swimming in gravy. I fished out delectable almonds and went below with pieces of bread to try to raise some bits of meat. Though I basked in the
