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6
DRAFT OF FITTED BODICE
(Special Measurement Method)
HOW TO DRAFT THE FITTED WAIST FOUNDATION PATTERN
The following diagrams show how to take the necessary measurements on the figure and how to draft the pattern.
The dotted lines in the drafting diagrams represent the construction lines; the solid heavy lines are the outlines of the pattern.
| IAn image should appear at this position in the text. | I. CENTER BACK LENGTH | |
| A to-B | From neck to waist. | |
| Draw this line for center back line | ||
| IIAn image should appear at this position in the text. | II. ACROSS BACK | |
| A to C | Equals 1/4 of line A-B. | |
| C to D | Equals half of width across back. | |
| Square a line across C to D; then extend line about 3". | ||
| IIIAn image should appear at this position in the text. | III. BACK SHOULDER HEIGHT | |
| B to E | Equals length from waist to shoulder, at neck. Tape is parallel to center back line. | |
| Extend center back line up above A. | ||
| IVAn image should appear at this position in the text. | IV. BACK BODY WIDTH | |
| E to F | Equals half of back plus 1/4' ease allowance. | |
| Square a line across E to F, | ||
| F to G | Square a line down from F to line C-D. | |
| VAn image should appear at this position in the text. | V. BACK SHOULDER SLOPE | |
| G to H | 1/2" Square a line across at B. | |
| H to I | Draw a line from H to I, marking point I somewhere on line F-G for shoulder slope. | |
| VIAn image should appear at this position in the text. | VI. BACK SHOULDER SEAM | |
| I to J | Equals shoulder, plus 1 /4" ease allowance. | |
| Locate J somewhere on line E-F. Then draw shoulder line. | ||
| J to A | Draw a curved line for back of neck. | |
| VIIAn image should appear at this position in the text. | VII. FULL BACK WIDTH | |
| B to K | Extend line down 1/4'. | |
| K to L | Equals half of back, measuring to side seam at armhole. | |
| Square a line across from center back line at K. | ||
| L to M | Square a line up from L to line C-D. | |
| VIIAn image should appear at this position in the text. | VIM. SIDE WAIST DEPTH | |
| A to N | Draw a line from A to N, locating point N somewhere on line K-L for side waist depth. | |
| IX. SIDE SEAM LENGTH | ||
| N to O | Draw side seam line, | |
| O to P | Square a line across from O to center back | |
| Q to D | Square a line up from Q to D. | |
| Q to R | 1" Draw a diagonal line. | |
| I to Q | Draw the armhole from I to D to R to O, | |
| VIIAn image should appear at this position in the text. | X. SACK WAISTLINE | |
| N to H | Connect for waistline. | |
| S to T | Square a line up to T. | |
| For dart, reduce required amount each side of S,to nothing at T. | ||
An image should appear at this position in the text.
