Page:Pattern Drafting And Grading (1961).djvu/58

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8 DRAFT OF FITTED BODICE - MISSES, 12-20

SIZE 12 14 16 20
A to B 15-1/2 15-3/4 16 16-1/4 16-1/4 16-1/2 Equals 1/4 Center Back Length.
A to C 3-7/8 3-7/8 4 4 4-1/8 Equals 1/2 about of Center Back Length.
C to D 6-1/2 6-3/4 7 7-1/4 7-1/2 Equals of Across Back Measurement.
A to E 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 Equals shoulder height line.
E to F 6-3/4 7 7-1/4 7-1/2 7-3/4 Equals line C-D, plus 1/4".
F to G 1-7/8 1-7/8 2 2 2 Equals shoulder slope depth.
G to H 4-3/4 4-7/8 5 5-1/8 5-14 Equals Shoulder Seam ( 1/4" ease included).
H to A Curve a line for back of neck.
B to J 7-3/4 7-7/8 8 8-1/8 8-1/4 Equals Side Seam Length, less 1/4".
J to K 8 8-1/2 9 9-1/2 10 Equals of Full Back Width measurement.
K to L 8 8-1/8 8-3/8 8-1/2 Equals Side Seam Length.
L to M 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 Square across at point L.
M to K Connect for Side Seam line.
B to N 4 4-1/4 4-1/2 4-3/4 5 Equals1/2 of J-K line.
M to N Connect to complete the waistline.
D to O Square a line down from point D to line J-K.
O to P 7/8" 1" 1" 1-1/8 1-1/8 Draw a diagonal line at 45° angle.
G to K Draw back armhole line from G to D to P to K
N to Q 1-1/4 1-3/8 1-1/2 1-1/2 1-1/2 Width of dart at waistline:
J to R 3-1/2 3-5/8 3-3/4 3-7/8 4 Equals distance from B to center of N-Q.
For dart, connect from N to R to Q.
SIZE 12 14 16 18 20
A to B 14-1/2 14-3/4 15 15-1/4 15-1/2 Equals Center Front Length.
A to C 2-7/8 2-7/8 3 3 3-1/8 Equals 1/5 of Center Front Length.
C to D 6-1/8 6-3/8 6-5/8 6-7/8 7-1/8 Equals 1/2 of Across Chest measurement.
A to E 2-1/8 2-3/16 2-1/4 2-5/16 2-3/8 Equals shoulder height line.
E to F 6-5/8 6-7/8 7-1/8 7-3/8 7-5/8 Equals line C-D plus ½. F to G 1-3/8 1-3/8 1-1/2 1-1/2 1-1/2 Equals shoulder slope depth. G to H 4-1/2 4-5/8 4-3/4 4-7/8 5 Equals Shoulder Seam.
H to A Draw a curved neckline, after squaring a-cross at A, and squaring from H, as illus.
B to J 9-1/4 9-3/8 9-5/8 9-3/4 10 Equals Side Seam Length, plus 1-3/8" for size 16 (with 1/8" grade for each two sizes)
J to K 8-1/8 8-5/8 9-5/8 9-3/4 10 Equals of Full Front Width measurement.
K to L 8 8-1/8 8-1/4 8-3/8 9-1/2 Equals Side Seam Length.
D to M Square a line down from point D to line J-K.
M to N 3/4 7/8 7/8 1" 1" Draw a diagonal line 45° angle.
G to K Draw front armhole line from G to D to N to K.
B to O 5-3/4 5-7/8 6 6-1/8 6-1/4 Equals about 1/2 of B to C on center front.
O to P 3-1/4 3-3/8 3-1/2 3-5/8 3-3/4 Equals about of E-F line.
B to Q 2-3/4 2-7/8 3 3-1/8 3-1/4 Equals O to P, less 1/2.
Q to P Connect.
Q to R 1-3/4 1-7/8 2 2 2 Equals width of dart at waistline.
R to P Equals length of line Q-P.
R to L Connect to complete the waistline.

The illustrations below indicate where each body measurement is taken on the figure. Measurements 4 and 6 on the back, and 9 and 10 on the front, are taken from side seam to side

The measurements 2 and 8 are taken from armhole to armhole.

An image should appear at this position in the text.
An image should appear at this position in the text.

1 CENTER BACK LENGTH 2 ACROSS BACK 3 SHOULDER SEAM 4 FULL BACK WIDTH 5 SIDE SEAM LENGTH 6 BACK WAISTLINE 7 CENTER FRONT LENGTH 8 ACROSS CHEST 9 FULL FRONT WIDTH 10 FRONT WAISTLINE



FOR A FIGURE WITH PROMINENT BUST, take an additional measurement over fullest part of bust, about 2 below the FULL FRONT WIDTH measurement, and if this measurement is greater,ad just Front pattern as follows:


Cut out dart, then slash from P to S, (2 from N) and spread needed amount at P, pivoting at S. (This also reduces armhole slightly).

An image should appear at this position in the text.