80
FASHIONS
FOR JULY .
and loopings-up of modern toilets. Two ancient materials gant they appear after their long banishment from “ things are come back to us, and have not even changed their that are worn." Without cutting them in any way, they names; they are chaly and mousseline de laine ; chaly, a are fitted to the figure and fastened with au agrafe of silk very soft woolen material, forms graceful folds ; mousseline gimp of every color in the shawl. If the shawl is long, it de laine, much lighter, will be worn with under-skirts. describes at the back a small pointed hood, which is ornaAlmost all pretty, delicate colors are equally fashionable. mented in front with appliques of gimp; it has revers enGray is much seen, there are lovely gray tints, fresh and tirely of gimp, and terminating with long tassels. If the delicate. Gray grenadines, in particular, are quite pretty, cashmere shawl is square, it has quite another aspect, being and compose complete toilets at once simple and distingue. made up into a casaque, with plaits at the waist, and wide Que also employs with great success, for draped dresses, sleeves. The lining used is shot silk. Nothing drapes the black English brillantine, a soft material, thicker than figure better than a soft cashmere ; but to arrange a shawi, grenadine, which can be draped in perfection, falling in so as to look like anything but a shawl, without using the beautiful soft folds. scissors, requires no ordinary skill. It is only at Worth's, Some variety is being introduced in walking-dresses ; for and at a few of the large houses, where it is attempted. SHOES are to be worn in and out-of-doors. Those for outthe numerous forms of mantles, sacques, etc., of black silk, white muslin, grenadine, etc., which the French call confec- of-doors are of morocco, made to come up well over the intions, are somewhat replacing the costumes, which are the step, and fastened at one side with a steel buckle- inst the walking-dresses with sacque, skirts, waist, all made of one same shape, in fact, as men have always worn. For in-doors color and material. These confections will give a much and evening wear, kid and satin shoes are fashionable of the greater variety to the dress; and for young ladies, nothing old shape, only that high heels are indispensable ; very large can be prettier than fichus, basques, mantles, etc., of white bows are worn, which come up high over the instep. In muslin, trimmed with knots of ribbon ruffles, or white order to make these set properly, an additional flap of grenadine over colored linings. leather or satin (according to the material of which the The wide sash is sometimes replaced by bows of different shoes are made) is inserted at the top of the shoe on the materials. Ifthe costume be of satin and taffetas, the bows front of the foot. The flap should be of the following dinenare of the same, even if of two colors ; this is only when the sions : two inches and a half deep, at the bottom three inches colors are a deep shade. The bows are placed in rows-four wide ; at the top four They are curved a little in two very at the top, five or six in the next, and the last row is formed shallow scallops, the point coming in the middle of the fit, by bows of a different shape, forming a kind of fan. and should be bound round like the shoes. The bows, which Cherusques, or wide fan-shaped trimmings of gauze or are sewn on them, are made as follows : They are four inches lace, recalling somewhat the Elizabethan frill, are often long, three inches wide at the bottom, and three and a half worn to complete the low bodies. Hitherto they have been at the top. They are placed on the shoes an inch and a half merely worn as evening-dress, but it is said they will be from the top. At both top and bottom the rosettes are fashionable with the spring toilet. rounded. The narrowest part consists of six loops of ribbon. We find the dinner and evening-dresses are made, for ex- arranged downward round the bottom of the rosettes; abcre ample, opened in front, with a revers of very wide lace, the that a circle of five loops, with the buckle in the midde: same lace forming the cherusque. then seven rows of loops packed as closely together as pos Two of the most admired dresses recently worn in Parissible, and arranged upward, so that the part of the rosette were quite simple. The first, worn by the Princess Metter- which rests on the instep is very thick and bunchy, and that nich, was what is called a robe nuage, consisting of skirt nearest the toes much flatter. It is an exceedingly becoming upon skirt, and all of white tulle ; the last, or upper-skirt, style to the foot. The variety of buckles worn is endless, was studded with small streaks of silver ; a tunic of white and those which once belonged to our graceful grandmothers tulle, trimmed with a plaiting to match, opened en tablier are now called into play, to adorn their- let us hope. no 1over the dress. The sash was made of Havannah-brown withstanding all that modern grumblers may say no less watered silk, and the ends were very long. Three rows of graceful grand-daughters. splendid diamonds encircled the Princess' throat ; and a spray of diamonds, with a brown feather, besides the long tail of a bird of Paradise-all of that peculiar shade of CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. brown called " Ilavannah"-formed her head-dress. FIG. 1.- DRESS OF PINK BAREGE, FOR A LITTLE GIRL- The The other dress was worn by Madame Leopold Leban, and was a striped steel-gray dress, with a deep flounce round the lower-skirt has three narrow ruffles ; the upper one is puffed edge of the skirt ; upon this flounce there were roses with up a good deal at the back, and is trimmed with a ruffle flexible stalks, so carelessly arranged that they had the which extends up the front and around the neck of the low effect of being scattered upon it from a basket, and, not- body. A white muslin under-waist, with long sleeves, is withstanding the informality of arrangement, the effect worn with it. FIG. II.-WHITE MUSLIN DRESS FOR A LITTLE GIRL - The was exceedingly happy. SHAPES OF BONNETS are unaltered ; the only variety is in skirt has one rather deep ruffle, headed by two small ones. the trimming. One of the prettiest we have seen is a black The upper is short, trimmed with a ruffle, and looped sp lace bonnet, ornamented at the side with blue feathers ; one with rosettes of green ribbon. The waist opens in frent of the lace lappets passes under the chin, and is fastened over a chemisette, and that and the short sleeves are tritanear the left ear with a white rose-bud. Many of the new med with bows of green ribbon. FIG. III -DRESS OF BLUE FOULARD FOR A YOUNG GIFL -The bonnets are fastened thus at the side, the other lappet being thrown back over the shoulder. under-skirt is made with a full pleating of the same arcu HATS are of all shapes, to suit all styles of faces. The the bottom. The upper-skirt opens in front, and is trimme- 1 Watteau, which is flat and wide, and drooping both back to correspond with the under-skirt. The pleating of the and front, is very becoming to some, but not to all faces. upper-skirt does not extend all the way around the bottera Others are in the Louis XIV. style, with large feathers of it, gathers it up in a puff at the back about three-fourths thrown back. For certain countenances this style of hat is of the way down. The sleeves and waist are high and plain, infinitely more becoming than the little flat toquet, which and a square cape, trimmed with a pleating, is worn over the body. is without distinction and style. FIG. IV. KNICKERBOCKER SUIT OF GRAY CASHMERE, trimThe new mode of arranging Indian cashmere shawls has quite brought them into fashion again, and exceedingly ele- med with braid, for a little boy.
