and grease: whether it were mutton or turkey, beans or lard, soup, lettuce, or atole (a thin drink made from Indian meal), nothing could be done without pepper. It was almost impossible to partake of the mildest and most innocent compound without a strong reminiscence of pepper: green pepper was served up as a salad; red pepper in everything; pepper everywhere—and soot.
The tortilla cakes must not be forgotten; as among the masses in Mexico they supply the place of bread. These, of course, were constantly being made at the fonda. They are composed of Indian corn, which is first boiled in water with a small quantity of lime to soften it, that the skin may be peeled off; it is next ground on a smooth stone, called metate, with a stone roller; then mixed into a paste, with a due (or rather an undue) proportion of chilé; laid and made into shape on a thin sheet of iron named comal, and placed on the fire. The thinness of the tortilla is the grand desideratum; it is baked in about three minutes: and should be eaten while hot.
Very frequently a customer on entering would seat himself on the floor, and taking a plate of lard, pepper, and beans upon his knees,
