Page:Picturesque New Guinea.djvu/149

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EXCURSION UP THE AROA RIVER.
51

navigation of the river is a vital obstacle to its possessing any commercial value for years to come, and the difficulty of shipping produce would involve great trouble and expense. I fear, therefore, that Cameron's claim is of little value, especially as his title is by no means clear. The natives have no notion of fee simple, and are possessed with the idea that the original owners have the reversion of real property on the death of the person to whom they sold it. Until the question of land tenure is settled by Government, I would strongly advise no one to contemplate the acquisition of real property in New Guinea, and indeed not even then, for there are millions of acres in Australia, waiting for purchase or selection, infinitely preferable in every respect to anything in Papua. After an hour's walk along native paths, we reached another almost deserted village, and penetrating the dense belt of scrub which borders the Aroa, came in sight of the main branch of that river. On the way our party was joined by Naimé Néru, the sub-chief of the Kabade district, and after crossing the river, here a swift clear stream flowing between banks twenty feet high, we came to the village named Ukaukana, of which Urevado is the chief. Tired and hot, we were glad to take refuge in the house of Sameo, a Samoan by birth, and mission teacher in this village. Bananas and cocoa-nuts were served up on mats spread on the Rabia batten floor, and the General made a few presents to Naimé Néru, which that sable warrior received in true native style, i.e., without evincing any visible gratitude or emotion. After resting an hour or so we sauntered through the village to trade for native curiosities, but found little of interest or value, and the wind being too high for photographing, returned the way we came to the teacher's house at Vanuabada, where we enjoyed a set dinner, comprising boiled jungle fowl and Goura pigeons with taro and yams, boiled plantains flavoured with grated cocoa-nut forming a second course, the whole washed down with tea and the milk of young cocoa-nuts. After dinner, Urè Vadu, the head chief of Kabade was introduced, attired European fashion, in an old Crimean shirt with a string of beads round his neck. Naimé Néru sat beside him, and a palaver then commenced; Mr. Chalmers translating for the High Commissioner's benefit the chief's