wark. Get a dozen or so of wooden "applicators" or iodine-swab sticks from the drug store, for use as dowels. Glue the after end of the bulwark into the rabbet at the quarterdeck, clamping it as shown in Fig. 24; run glue into the ledge formed by the waterway and deck; glue the outer sides of the timber heads, and then proceed forward with the strip, as in Fig. 27. fastening it in place by pinning to the waterway as in Figs. 24 and 25, and clamping it to the timber heads by means of spring clothespins, as in Fig. 26. The timber heads will help spring the thin strip to shape forward and aft. At the foc's'le head, drill small holes and dowel the strip to the hull, Fig. 28. When the glue has set, remove the clamp at the after end and insert some glued dowels. Pins may be used instead of the applicators, but the advantage of the latter is that one can carve right through them, and this is of special value here, since the bulwark should run smoothly along with the hull lines, and this usually necessitates some carving, filing and sandpapering at the ends. Now trim the top of the bulwark down until it makes a smooth curve from end to end with the sheer of the foc's'le and quarterdecks, and file the timber heads down, clamping them as in Fig. 20, while filing. Cut off and glue in place the remaining timber heads, clamping them to the bulwark with spring clothespins, spacing them equally and filing them down level with the top of the bulwark. Round off the inboard edges of the waterways, as in Fig. 30.
For work of this kind, get some packages of ordinary dressmakers' pins, and also a package or two of the very small pins known as "Lills." These are about 1⁄2 in. long, and are essential.
It is wise, at this time, to paint the inside of the bulwarks, since they are hard to get at later. Give them three or four coats of white japan color, thinned with turps, then a final coat of eggshell-gloss
